ࡱ> IKH 8bjbj 4N0L I,C^(p+0I SS((IS L:  Cloning Glenmorangie (by Harry Jackson)Part I Still design: By and large, copying still designs of the old Scotch distilleries is not really much use to a home distiller, unless you've got a lot of money, time, metal smith skills and patience. They don't scale well. It is better to understand what the various designs achieve in the final product, and then build a standard home pot still with a few tweaks to mimic the outcome of their much larger cousins. Glenmorangie pot stills have a neck (column) some 5.5 metres tall, quite a bit more than the average; in fact the tallest of the Scotch pot stills. At the base of the neck, where it joins the boiler lid, is a spherical shape known as a 'boil-ball'. The boil-ball and the over-length neck have but one purpose; to produce as much reflux and separation as possible in a pot still. This brings about an end product considerably lighter in congeners compared to other Scotch Malts. This, combined with Glenmorangie's much stricter cuts (1/5, most others cut 1/3) makes a product that home distillers should be able to duplicate more easily than the heavier malts, as home distillers pot stills invariably make lighter spirits than commercial stills. At this point I must say one thing. Home distillers reflux stills are NOT pot stills. However, it is quite possible to use them as pot stills if you remove about 3/4 of the mesh packing, leaving just a little to increase the separation, just as the boil-ball does in the commercial stills. If you already have a pot still, you can achieve a similar result by angling the lyne arm at the top of the neck to a 45 angle for about 60cm of length, and then direct it downward to the condenser or worm. The suggested tweaking methods for the two still designs will give product lighter than the usual, which is the first step in trying to duplicate Glenmorangie. By the way, it hasn't yet been decided just WHICH Glenmorangie is to be cloned. Is it to be the Glenmorangie 10 Years? Glenmorangie 18 Years? Glenmorangie Madeira Wood Finish? Glenmorangie Port Wood Finish? Glenmorangie Sherry Wood Finish? Or, just Glenmorangie in general, then worry about the finish later? As a famous TV ad from years gone by said "Oils aint oils, Sol". Part II The Mash: There are two methods of preparing the mash. This goes for all home-styled Scotch whiskies, not just Glenmorangie. The first, most traditional, is all-grain. The second is a combination of peated malt and extract (LME). The all grain method is suitable for those who have background and skills as all-grain beer brewers. The second is for the many that have difficulty with conversion of starches, or just plain don't like the work, mess and fuss attached to all-grain (that's most of us). With beers a connoisseur can tell the difference. With distilled spirits only a 75yo Highlander could pick it, and he wouldn't say 'the nae' if the dram was free. All Grain Mash: The first thing you need to consider is the peated malt. This is the one constant distinction between Scotch malts. When you talk of peat, you are really talking of the phenols imparted by the peat smoke. These are measured in parts per million (ppm) of finished whiskies. Glenmorangie is light to moderate in phenol, around 8 or 9 ppm. Some, like the Islay malts, are closer to 45 ppm. If there's one way of experimenting and adjusting your mashes that will produce noticeable changes, it's varying the peated malt fraction of the grain bill. You need to use a peated malt somewhat higher in phenols than your desired finished product, as some of the phenols get left behind during distillation, although most are recycled through the feints to the next batch (more on that later). You can buy peated malt grain from homebrew outlets, but it is only around the 15 to 17 ppm mark. Consequently you can't make the stronger Islay type malts at home, unless you get really enthusiastic and peat your own malt, or add something like a smoke essence to your finished spirit. However, 15 to 17 ppm is ideal as a starting point for Glenmorangie. Just tone it down a fraction by mixing it 3:1 with unpeated malt (3 of peated, 1 of unpeated). This will give a finished spirit in the range of Glenmorangie. Do your mash & sparge as per the usual brewing methods, with one very important exception i.e. do NOT use hops. Hops, when concentrated by distillation, give a very overpowering bitter taste and is the reason you can't just take beer and distil it. Aim for a wort of around 8% potential alcohol and a quick ferment with a combination of baker's and brewer's yeasts, to finish in about 3 to 4 days. Let it settle for a further 1 or 2 days after the bubbling has all-but stopped, to let the yeast re-absorb excess diacetyl, then do the first distillation. Some will tell you that you can make a much higher gravity wort and use a turbo-type yeast, or a high-attenuation yeast like Lalvin EC-1118 or Red Star (same strain). You can, but what you finish up with will not even remotely resemble Glenmorangie, or any other Scotch malt. The yeast used plays a far more important role in producing Scotch than mere carbohydrate conversion. It is a huge factor in the taste of the finished article. For this reason, it is better to follow the methods used by the distilleries, that of a fast-acting yeast (bakers, ~1gm/litre) to quickly start the fermentation and stop other yeasts & bacteria getting a foothold, and a brewers yeast (0.6gm/litre)to get the desired flavours into the fermentation. Extract Mash: Extract mash is fairly simple to do. It uses peated malt as a flavouring adjunct, and if the temperature is handled correctly most of the starch will also convert, but this is not so critical as with an all grain batch. For a standard sized wort ~25 litres, heat 15 litres of water to 70C (158F), add 2 kg peated malt grain, put a lid on it and wrap the pot in towels to hold in the heat. Let it sit for about 1/2 an hour. Strain it through a cotton pillow-case and then rinsing the grains with 4 litres of hot water (77C, 170F). To the 19 litres of hot fluid, add 6 kg liquid malt extract (LME, pale malt extract, NO hops) and stir in until dissolved. DO NOT boil this mixture as you will scorch the extract syrup. Cool the wort as quickly as possible. Use a wort chiller, or decant it into smaller quantities and put it in the fridge. It needs to be ~25 to 26C (77 to 80F). Transfer to your fermenter, stir in plenty of air in the process, pitch the yeasts and airlock it. Follow the same procedure re fermentation time, as for all grain. This should get you started on the road to Glenmorangie Scotch. Part III Glenmorangie Distillation: I mentioned previously in Part I the types of tweaks that need to be implemented for both pot still and reflux still processing of wash destined to be a Glenmorangie clone. Armed with this information, let us proceed... First distillation (of two); The stripping run It doesn't matter much which still design you have, either pot still with modified lyne arm, or reflux still with detuned packing. The general distilling concepts, methods and results will be almost identical. Charge the still to the 3/4 full mark with the wash. This will allow enough headroom for possible foaming. If foaming becomes a problem, you can add a couple of tablespoons of butter to the wash. The oil will break up the foam and reduce the foamhead, without distilling over into the low wines. Run up the still without reflux, collecting quickly at fully open take-off. At this stage you do not try to separate fractions (i.e. methanol, heads etc.). Collect approximately 1/3 of the volume of the stillpot charge, and then switch to the feints receiver. This first fraction is your `low wines'. The remaining 2/3 is distilled into the feints receiver until the wash is practically spent of recoverable alcohol. This will be at about the 98C (208F) mark, just under water's boiling point at sea-level. If your boiler capacity matches your fermenter capacity, you are now ready to proceed to the second distillation. If not, then continue to process subsequent still charges in this manner until you have processed all of the wash. The capture of the feints needs to be explained at this point. The remaining 2/3 that is strip-distilled to the feints receiver will be ~28% alcohol by volume (abv) and be only about 1/15 to 1/25 the amount of the original still charge, so it's only a small amount, but nonetheless an important contribution to later distillations, as it contains valuable flavonoids. The remaining fluid (almost entirely water) in the still from these first runnings is called `pot-ale'. It is of little value in a home distillers setup however, some commercial distilleries use it to sparge grains in an ongoing operation, thereby recovering its heat and any residual flavonoids. Some also process it for animal fodder, but obviously you'd need quite a lot for that to be worthwhile. You could experiment with using it as sparge water, but this is only useful if you are running a somewhat continuous operation. If you have to re-heat it at a later sparging (i.e. batch processing), then it's not worth the effort. You might just as well throw it out and use fresh water for the next sparge/fermentation. So now you have the `low wines' and some `feints' in separate containers. You have two choices on how to proceed from here. You can either distil immediately, or you may store the low wines for a future run. This is possible because the high alcohol content (20 40%, depending on the type of still) protects the low wines from contamination, and the same high alcohol content (28%) of the feints will do likewise, providing the containers are kept sealed. Whichever you decide, the following is the description of the second distillation, also called the `Spirit Run'. Second distillation (of two); the spirit run Charge your stillpot with a mixture of 60% low wines and 40%feints. Obviously if this is your first time running whisky, you will not have enough stored feints to meet this demand, so make up the difference with clean soft water. Eventually with future runnings you will have enough feints. Run up the still and distil the low wines, discarding everything up to 77C as methanol (you will always get methanol with grain based washes). This temperature measurement is taken at a point at or near where the vapours go over into the lyne arm, or liquid is taken from the column, depending on your still design. It is absolutely necessary to have a `Parrot's Beak' measuring device attached to the still at a point where the liquid emerges as distillate, be it after the worm, or after the take-off point of a column. Otherwise the next step, `the Cut' becomes very difficult to judge without considerable experience. Temperature monitoring alone is not accurate enough in flavoured spirits. There's too much variation. Divert the first runnings (heads) to the feints receiver until the measurement at the Parrot's Beak reads 75%. Switch to your spirit receiver and collect `The Cut' (hearts) until the Parrot's Beak measurement reads 65%. This is Glenmorangie's 1/5 narrow cut. If you were doing other types of Scotch whisky, the cut would finish somewhere around 55% (more `tails', therefore a heavier spirit). Switch again to the feints receiver and collect everything until the temperature again reads 98C, as you did in the first distillation. These feints can be stored for subsequent whisky runs as mentioned before. The hearts collected will be somewhere in the vicinity of ~10% in volume of your original wash, which is a small return, but nonetheless a very good spirit, ready for the aging process to turn it into whisky. How you age it is up to you. You may age it in glass with 10 gm. oak chips per litre, reducing the strength each month by 10% with demineralised water until it reaches 40%abv. You may continue to distil further batches until you have enough new spirit to fill a reasonable sized cask, and then age it for several years. 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