StillSmart

Re: Todays run

2011-08-01T01:03:29+00:00

Phantom.
This may help: http://aussiedistiller.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=149
The info is Aussie-centric but will give you ideas for element in keg.
More: http://aussiedistiller.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=341
There will be more if you look around

Statistics: Posted by Andy — Mon Aug 01, 2011 1:03 am

Re: Todays run

2011-07-31T16:04:30+00:00

Yes, my keg is almost definitely a standard UK sized one (a friend from another forum found it at a scrappy in the Birmingham area - not too many dents etc).

I haven't dismantled the valve yet, though it's marked as emptied/depressurised etc

Your pic's have given me an idea, that if I got a ferrule and tri-clamp, then I could probably manage to get a copper sleeve type joint welded to the ferrule and then make a seperate column which would sit into the joint as like an adapter. As long as it's not too unweildly, a seal of flour/water paste should do the job.

Of course, I'd rather use electricity to heat it, but I've no idea about how I could fit any electrical heating elements to the keg (yet), so it would probably have to be a propane burner (not ideal.....)

If you don't mind, rather than splattering the thread with extraneous questions, as I progress, I'll just send PM's - that way, if I do ever manage to get it built/set up, I can take some pic's and make a seperate "how to" type thread about it......

I would have sorted this much quicker, but the regular 60 + hour weeks tend to kill a lot of "home time", and to be honest, I've very pleased how I've been getting on with the T500 I got.....

But I still want to try and produce something that will manage the mythical 95.6% ABV..... >:D

Statistics: Posted by Phantom — Sun Jul 31, 2011 4:04 pm

Re: Todays run

2011-07-25T19:58:15+00:00

I cant resize those bloody pictures - here a direct link

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h34 ... C00484.jpg

http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h34 ... C00485.jpg

Statistics: Posted by Capt-Cudellez — Mon Jul 25, 2011 7:58 pm

Re: Todays run

2011-07-25T19:54:18+00:00

if your keg is a UK keg, then a 2" sanitary fitting will do the job.

However, if you are planning on using copper for the column the stainless to copper bit can be quite tricky - or so I've read.
Artisan Copper Works in china, do a 2" copper ferule that will slip over UK 54mm tube and can be soft soldered in place. This makes the connection much simpler.

is this the sort of keg you have?

This is a UK keg on to the 2" ferule. the ferule is slightly bigger, but the clamp handles it no problem.

As the keg doesn't have the groove for the sanitary gaskets, you would probably be best cutting a flat one out of TPFE sheet (from someone like direct plastics)

The way I connected the column to the T500 boiler, was to cut the T500 column to keep the existing screw fitting, then used an expanding 2" ferule over the cut column and braised it in place. This is obviously a drastic measure, but as my fabrication skills are nill, it was worth it for me. I liked the open top boiler and wanted to keep using it.

Statistics: Posted by Capt-Cudellez — Mon Jul 25, 2011 7:54 pm

Re: Todays run

2011-07-25T19:26:08+00:00

See, at the moment I'm still collecting parts or locating stuff. Hence asking about how you've achieved this.

At the moment, I've got a 45litre keg in stainless, and I've located some needle valves, plus fittings onto 6 or 8 mm pipe. I'm thinking of an offset condenser etc, I've even found copper pipe up to an incredible 248mm.

So now I need to check the size of the keg top hole, so I've an idea of the bore size of the column and whether I can use 54mm copper, and get a ferule in stainless so I can use a tri-clamp fixing.......

Statistics: Posted by Phantom — Mon Jul 25, 2011 7:26 pm

Re: Todays run

2011-07-25T18:02:50+00:00

Some more details for you phantom. Its 2" column with a 1" male nipple welded in for the output, this attaches to a 1" gate valve, which in turn attaches to the condenser.
The male nipple is the extended type and goes 1" into the center of the column, I think this will give a similar result to using the reduced T fitting you see many people using without the expense of the additional fitting.

The condenser is 1.5" tube over 1" core going into a 90 Elbow that treads into the gate valve. There is also 6mm copper tube wound round the 1" core to turbulate the cooling waters. the cooling outputs are 3/8" (9.5mm) SS tube. The condensers is over-sized for this application and should knock down 6KW+, I got this as I thought I was going to get a 100L keg and fit 2 x 3Kw elements.

The thermometer is a 1/4" female socket as this is what most of the available thermometers come in, I do have a male plug for this if I want to use a digital probe, this is fitted half way up the column in line with snuffy's posts on AD about the placement of the probe, it really does give you an indication of whats happening before you notice a change in the output.

The coil is 8" long and 23 winds, and was done by another member over at AD also based in the UK, I don't have his permission to post his details so wont.

Statistics: Posted by Capt-Cudellez — Mon Jul 25, 2011 6:02 pm

Re: Todays run

2011-07-25T05:50:17+00:00

Will do. I'm down at the in laws for now so will send you the details on Tuesday, when I get back on my laptop.

Tube was 2"x 1.5mm from Metals4U
most of the fittings were from http://www.zx55.com in the UK

The expanding ferrules were from "OCS Process Systems" in the states (they have an ebay shop) this let me modify the boiler without being able to weld. Heat the ferrule up, it slips over the pipe, cools and tightens. i brased it to make sure it wouldn't come loose during a run.

Statistics: Posted by Capt-Cudellez — Mon Jul 25, 2011 5:50 am

Re: Todays run

2011-07-24T20:01:36+00:00

Damn that's fine looking work. I'm trying to achieve something similar, but am currently lacking a few bits and measurements.

So, if you do see this CC, perhaps you could post some spec on stuff like the pipe sizes, ferules, tri-clamp etc and where you found it all.

Or just PM it to me

regards

P!

Statistics: Posted by Phantom — Sun Jul 24, 2011 8:01 pm

Re: Todays run

2011-06-23T19:33:50+00:00

Here she is in Pot\Stripper mode, although I'll probably only use this on my big keg. Just need to work up the courage to cut it to fit the element.

CC

Statistics: Posted by Capt-Cudellez — Thu Jun 23, 2011 7:33 pm

Re: Todays run

2011-06-23T18:52:26+00:00

Andy wrote:
Sounds like your having fun.

Any pic\'s of the new setup?

Here is the new VM column on the T500 boiler. The T500 column is tougher than it looks, blunted 2 hacksaw blades doing the first cut. Braised the tri-clamp ferrule on, and ready to rock and roll for a leak test. Doing the other cuts will have to wait till the weekend when I can get some more blades.

CC

Statistics: Posted by Capt-Cudellez — Thu Jun 23, 2011 6:52 pm

Todays run

2011-05-30T02:09:55+00:00

Good work there CC.

You should join the design team at SS

Statistics: Posted by Andy — Mon May 30, 2011 2:09 am

Todays run

2011-05-29T15:41:42+00:00

Statistics: Posted by Capt-Cudellez — Sun May 29, 2011 3:41 pm

Todays run

2011-05-29T13:26:19+00:00

I\'ll post pictures of the t500, when itâ€™s been chopped and modified.
Iâ€™m completely sold on running the T500 on reduced power with insulation, I understand the makers want a simple system that is almost foolproof, But 2KW on such a small column is just overkill, itâ€™s great for the warm up, but for me using the T500 the way it was sold ment pulling off 600-700ml/h to get good product, Iâ€™ve found by cutting the power to 50-60% you can up the output, use less cooling and make tighter cuts, without a drop in ABV. I donâ€™t think Iâ€™ve found the sweet spot yet, so there is maybe more to be squeezed out of this unit.
Iâ€™ve ran on as little as 900w, with the cooling temp around 80*C and still pulled off 93ABV, my main issue Iâ€™ve split the cooling after the condenser, so if running on a trickle of cooling needed for the low power runs the output is warm and you donâ€™t get a good reading on the parrot. I didnâ€™t get good enough control from the ball valves to fine tune the reflux, and I had a problem with air getting in. So with a few changes to get more cooling to the condenser, with a trickle to the reflux and a bit more experimentation I reckon more can be pushed out of this thing.
CC

Statistics: Posted by Capt-Cudellez — Sun May 29, 2011 1:26 pm

Todays run

2011-05-29T13:22:54+00:00

Haven\'t got the new bits back form the welders yet, but I have photos.
Here is my T500 in her Jacket

Cooling control

Parrot

Power controller and meter

Condenser, VM and 12\" CM externtion.

Welds

Built up

Statistics: Posted by Capt-Cudellez — Sun May 29, 2011 1:22 pm

Todays run

2011-05-29T08:31:20+00:00

Sounds like your having fun.

Any pic\'s of the new setup?

Statistics: Posted by Andy — Sun May 29, 2011 8:31 am