StillSmart

There a good condenser, it's all about coolent v area. If you can get equal coolent flow/ temp to every square mm of area you have a great condenser. Having coolent turbulent is a great idea. The best condenser I've done is the 3 walled one, there's many different types. Mine is, 1/2' inner tube, 3/4' middle tube, 1' outer tube. Vapor path is between the outer wall of the 1/2' and the outer wall of the 3/4'. It's very efficient, I've done it in 2' also, achieving 19.8Lph stripping.

Intrigued by the 3 wall condenser concept, because it would allow for a more compact unit, I got my pencil and paper and set about making some rough drawings to figure out the parts and arrangement of joints.

I was at it for an hour and I can't figure out how to get a water flow into the centre 1/2 inch pipe in the middle of the vapour path and get it out again and a second water flow in the outer 1 inch pipe

Put my out of my misery and post a diagram of the parts and how the flows work, please

Pretty Please!

AM

Hey mate, I tried to upload a picture last night but wouldn't work!. Yeah it did my head in trying to figure out how to work the plumbing too haha . Hope the pictures help.

That is an interesting condenser - a coldfinger inside a Liebig. It is a usefull option for a larger bore liebig as an alternative to a turbulator.

I tried it myself (with a coiled outer jacket) but later re-purposed the components, to build the Friedrich's condenser on my pot still.



One possible alternative plumbing option to get the product back onto the axis of the condenser is this:



If you wish you can add in a flow control in the coolant line between the coolant splitter and the input to the central coldfinger, to balance the flow between the 2 coolant paths. The only problem is the extra length, that why I changed to the concentric version.
http://www.stillsmart.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=2076

Thanks for the pics and diagrams, it was doing my head in trying to figure it out but I get it now

AM

OK the new 700mm Liebig is ready to go along with the new 2" Pot I also built. Probably not too exciting for the more experienced members out there but it's my first DIY project and I'm pretty pleased with the outcome. Should help me make that special Malt Scotch I crave :0) Cheers, SW

StillWaters wrote: Probably not too exciting for the more experienced members out there

You are wrong, it is exciting for us all.



It's fun isn't it?

Hear Hear! And not a drop of solder in sight, very tidy indeed

Nice work SW

AM

Thanks Guys - I'll let you know how it performs shortly. You're right though, it sure is fun:0) Cheers, SW

Doesn't matter if you've built your first hand made still or you've done 20 of them, the hole process is exciting! . No.better.feeling running something you've built with your bare hands!, so satisfying!. I don't think it's been soldered aidan, doesn't look like it?

Nice rig, should perform well.
700mm should knock it all down, but you might use a bit of coolant and/or water. If its an issue, you can add another 200mm overall length to it, it will become a lot more efficient.

I cant give elephant stamps out here, but if I could, I'd give you one. Or a gold star.

googe spotted it . . . . it hasn't been soldered up yet. Just waiting for the blow torch to arrive in a couple of days. Got slightly ahead of myself and ordered/cut all the pieces and then realised I hadn't got a gas torch :0( Sign of a true plumber!!
Will use lead-free silver solder or brazing rods - not sure yet.
As far as the length and cooling capacity is concerned I only have a 1380w boiler with a home-made power controller, so should be OK at 1ltr/hr flow - that is sufficient for my 2" Boka.
Cheers, SW

StillWaters wrote:Will use lead-free silver solder or brazing rods - not sure yet.

Ordinary plumbers soft solder is more than strong enough, no need for brazing or silver solder, they just make it harder and cost a lot more.

StillWaters wrote: I only have a 1380w boiler with a home-made power controller

That will do nicely, a larger element would speed up the warm up time but not required for a Bok.

To answer the earlier question: yes you can solder copper to stainless using silver solder with a borax based flux. I use Easy flo.

YHB is right you only need lead free soft solder for the copper to copper. Basicly tin or pewter as it was known when made into tankards and the like.

You can also use a zinc chloride flux to soft solder copper to copper or even copper to stainless. I made some and it's very good but, if you get it on your skin wash it off quickly or it will start to burn.

I made a GL liebig myself now and it works well. Only used it for solvent recovery so far.

Also finished my bubble ball today, more or less.

Got to refresh my memory now, on what I was building before I got sidetracked, so back online.

Ant

Hi Ant,

I stuck a GL liebig in my recent Boka build as you suggested, it works great. Although I can’t compare performance over a normal uncrimped liebig since it’s the only one I’ve built. But hey, can’t do any harm.

Good to hear your back on with your build!

Regards,