First post and start of my Bokakob build
Hi Everyone
I'm Brand new on here! I've been browsing the AUS/NZ forums for a while, and have been toying with the idea of building a Reflux Still for a few years now, in fact I have 4 KG of 6mm ceramic Rashig Rings I bought back in 2011, anyway when I come across a forum for us Brits, I just had to join :-)
Anyway, I'm no stranger to brewing, I have a garage full of gear and mainly make all grain beers, but have made pretty much everything over the years, beer, wines etc
I've now decided its time to build a still, I was looking at the T500 but think I can do a better job for less cash! I'm still tempted to get the T500 boiler if it works out easier than modifying the top of my home brew boiler, which is a 50litre stainless steel job with a 3Kw immersion heater in it, I also have a phase angle controller to lower the power of this boiler but the top doesn't create a seal when fitted.
My plan is to build a Bokakob with as little soldering as possible, so far I have the following parts
3m length of 54mm copper tube
10m coil of 8mm copper tube
10m coil of 6mm copper tube
4 x 54mm cap ends
2 x 54mm inline copper fitting (the ones that have the solder rings included)
I'm going to build 6mm double wound cooling coil I have some 6mm compression fittings with a 1/4 inch thread they're going to go though one of the 54mm end caps and screw into similar fittings on the outside to make the job solder free.
I'm also planning on holding the two angled plates in the column in place by sliding a 54mm solder ring coupling piece over them and just heating this coupling piece to melt the solder already inside it, creating a seal. For the outlet and temp probe fixing, I'm planning on using compression fitting again that are for 8mm copper pipe but can be screwed in to a threaded hole, the section of the column where they screw in will be effectively double wall'd as it will be where the coupling is that holds the plates in place, I'll get some photos up as soon as I can of what bits I've got and how the build progresses.
Look forward to any comments and suggestions from you guys, good or bad, there's always room for improvement in any design.
I'm Brand new on here! I've been browsing the AUS/NZ forums for a while, and have been toying with the idea of building a Reflux Still for a few years now, in fact I have 4 KG of 6mm ceramic Rashig Rings I bought back in 2011, anyway when I come across a forum for us Brits, I just had to join :-)
Anyway, I'm no stranger to brewing, I have a garage full of gear and mainly make all grain beers, but have made pretty much everything over the years, beer, wines etc
I've now decided its time to build a still, I was looking at the T500 but think I can do a better job for less cash! I'm still tempted to get the T500 boiler if it works out easier than modifying the top of my home brew boiler, which is a 50litre stainless steel job with a 3Kw immersion heater in it, I also have a phase angle controller to lower the power of this boiler but the top doesn't create a seal when fitted.
My plan is to build a Bokakob with as little soldering as possible, so far I have the following parts
3m length of 54mm copper tube
10m coil of 8mm copper tube
10m coil of 6mm copper tube
4 x 54mm cap ends
2 x 54mm inline copper fitting (the ones that have the solder rings included)
I'm going to build 6mm double wound cooling coil I have some 6mm compression fittings with a 1/4 inch thread they're going to go though one of the 54mm end caps and screw into similar fittings on the outside to make the job solder free.
I'm also planning on holding the two angled plates in the column in place by sliding a 54mm solder ring coupling piece over them and just heating this coupling piece to melt the solder already inside it, creating a seal. For the outlet and temp probe fixing, I'm planning on using compression fitting again that are for 8mm copper pipe but can be screwed in to a threaded hole, the section of the column where they screw in will be effectively double wall'd as it will be where the coupling is that holds the plates in place, I'll get some photos up as soon as I can of what bits I've got and how the build progresses.
Look forward to any comments and suggestions from you guys, good or bad, there's always room for improvement in any design.


