StillSmart

I added a 36 inch extension with a diameter of 2 inches. I used a copper 2 inch cap at both ends of the extension with a 7/8" hole on center. The condenser was fitted to one cap using the original condenser nut. I purchased a spare condenser nut and a 1/2" locknut to fit the other cap to the lid.

To seal the pipe, teflon tape was wrapped around the pipe at either end to ensure a snug fit into each cap. Also, additional sealing was provided by two rubber gaskets cut from a bicycle inner tube rated for 1.75" to 2.35".

I will follow up with another post on operation. Generally, the boiler was powered up to 1125W for the hearts.

Don't keep us waiting too long!

Looking Forward to hearing the results!

Rubber from your bicycle tyre will degenenerate very quickly and is not recommended if it is in contact with the vapour stream - Silicone seems to be a better / safer alternative - I cut mine from my wifes baking sheet, which I get from Morrisons, the local supermarket for about 2.50 pounds. - That is OK if you want a flat sheet - but I also saw some silicone cup cake moulds that may be Ok if you are looking at rubber band type gaskets. Just cut the top and bottom out of these.



I am due for a shopping trip tomorrow I will check up on the size.

Thanks. That's better. After the test run and seeing the mess the rubber left on the outside, I quickly went to the teflon tape as the primary seal.

My plan is to order the long ferrules and triclover clamps with a PTFE gasket to connect the pipes for the Boka build.

YHB, are you using the flat silicone sheet in combination with two hose clamps to seal each slip joint?

Sorry, she who must be obeyed decided we needed to go to Sainsbury's instead of Morrisons and they did not have the silicon cup cake moulds for me to check the size. The silicone is good for 275 degrees C. a bit more than bicycle inner tubes.

Sorry if I confused you about me using the Silicone sheet. No I do not intend using the sheet on the slip joints but I have used it elsewhere as gaskets.

As far as my philosophy is concerened the way that I see it, is that there are two sources of potential leaks;

1) Liquid - this is the distillate refluxing back down the column. By soldering the inner sleeve to the upper half of the joint the condensate will be directed well below the joint, to leak it would then have to turn round and run 4" vertically upwards, which I cannot see happening.

2) Vapour - This in theory will be as near to zero pressure as you can get. To escape it will have to travel upwards for 4" between the inner sleeve and the column then another 4" between column and the outer sleeve. If there are any leaks then I will put some sealant at the positions I have indicated on my sketch

http://www.stillsmart.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=733

Capt'n C, mentioned that he had used some food grade sealant, or you could use a four and water paste that a lot of people seem to prefer.

Time will tell if my joints leak, if they do then I will be asking you for advice on installing ferrules, so keep lots of notes.

I saw a youtube video on press fitting and soldering a a stainless steel long ferrule to a copper pipe. Oddly, I can't find it. It involved sanding the stem of the ferrule and then freezing it to make it contract. Then, the copper pipe was heated at the end receiving the ferrule. Then, the ferrule is pressed into the pipe by hand and then by force using a wood plank, wood block and a mallet. The started ferrule end of the copper pipe is placed down and perpendicular to the wood plank on a flat surface. The wood block is then placed on top of the other end of the pipe. Then, pound with mallet until press fitted. This works with 2" pipe and it is said that soldering is not necessary.

If the ferrule does not need persuasion to fit. Then, solder prep must be done in addition.

I have not tried soldering copper to stainless so I do not know how difficult or easy it woud be. Is this an issue for you? perhaps that is that why you are looking at heat shrink, driven joints?

If you are concerened about the soldering here is an alternative; copper ferrules that shouild be no more difficult to solder than a standard plumbing joint.

http://artisancopperworks.com/shop/article_1/2%22-Easy-Flange.html?shop_param=cid%3D3%26aid%3D1%26

I do not know what continent you are on, or what pipe the ferrules are designed to fit but a quick note to these very helpfull distillers should quickly sort out any interface problems.

I have some general observations from just a couple of runs. These are qualified by the column only having 24 out of the planned 30 inches of copper packing. One, that 1000W appears to be the peak power to drive a 36 inch extension. Two, that 91 to 92% can be achieved in about half the time of running a Super Reflux without extension at about 750W.

I have done a couple of more runs in this configuration (36 inch extension with 30 inches of copper mesh). A digital thermometer is a great improvement over the original one and is a necessary upgrade for this configuration.

I tend to use this link as a crutch. http://www.homedistiller.org/reflux_calc.htm
It helps estimate speed and when to quit.

Operation:

1. use the full 1380W to come to boil.

2. when the upper 3/4 mark of the extension feels warm, the bottom half feels hot and the top quarter feels less cold than the start; drop power to 750W and start cooling water.

3. maintain total reflux for a half hour at 65C while adjusting power as necessary.

4. raise power to 800 to 815W to slowly take off 50 ml of foreshots (to discard) and then the heads (some of which with a less estery smell may be saved to recycle).

5. keeping power under 825W will allow for compression of heads at 77C or just below.

6. collect heads in smaller lots such as 50 to 100 ml until cut to hearts.

7. upon cut to hearts, raise power to 950W - 1000W for a fast drip at 78.2 to 78.3C.

8. collect hearts in 200 ml lots.

9. when the purity remaining in the charge is 2% based on the calculation from the "crutch" link, collect output in 50 ml lots as tails will be imminent.

10. stop collection upon reaching 78.4C or sooner when output transitions to a rancid smell (discard tails with more than a hint of wet dog or wet cardboard).


Following these steps, a 17 L charge at 10% took seven hours from switch on to switch off. The result averages around 92%.

As an update, I added ferrules to the 36" extension (snugly press fitted) and I silver soldered a 2" ferrule to the lid of the Super Reflux boiler. I have a 1/2" male to 2" triclover adapter on order for attaching the Super Reflux head.

I have also made a Boka LM condenser which mostly relegates the Super Reflux to pot mode for stripping runs.