StillSmart

Right I've got the chance of a used clean copper tank, heater fitted and working. Now what's going through my noggin is to use this to make my still. Cut it down to say 40/50 liters, make the top from what's cut from the middle.


BJ..

You will have to modify the element as they do not get to boiling temps

That should be easy enough, just tear the thermostat out and use a power controller with an old water cylinder you're going to do a hell of a lot of cleaning inside it to get it useable. I can think of easier way to make a boiler - I'm a lazy sod at heart - but look forward to pics of your progress

Good luck with it

AM

It can be dangerous if the heating element gets exposed when doing a run.

If the heater is near the top you might get away with using the boiler upside down but I'd feel safer with a kettle type element fitted to the bottom of the boiler.

Have a look at the claw hammer site, there few videos that give tips on working with copper boiler.


http://www.clawhammersupply.com/pages/moonshine-videos

Right it's great to have the forum back online lads, I missed it last night when I got home.



Ok...all points taken on board guys...element is at the bottom of the tank. So what contoller would I need?? If the element looks bad then it will be replaced.. I may even install another element to speed up the "warm up time"
Cleaning the inside I have no problem with that... start with a wire brush for the heavy crud..then maybe a good soak with citric or vinegar...what do you guys think??

I have the chance of the tank and I like the idea of making my own still, I've looked at 40/50 lts SS pots...also kegs, then thought I'd like to work with the copper. I built all of my brewery, so I can't wait to get started.

Will checkout Clawhammer cheers YHB.

Picking it up on Sat morn...

How about VWE for the initial cleaning? Seems to work on just about everything.

John51 wrote:How about VWE for the initial cleaning? Seems to work on just about everything.

Is VWE strong enough??? I thought it was more of a sterilizer??? but if it'll make the job easier I'm all for it...

I'd avoid using a wire brush on the copper as it will cut into the metal and leave tracks that all sorts of crud can lodge in and could, over time, affect flavours.

Stainless Steel scrubbers are a different matter. They will remove any deposits and will seal the copper surface and leave it smooth, shiny and clean

I'd also use a solution of warm soapy water in the cleaning stage.

If possible, soak the inside of the vessel with very hot soapy water and let it soak/cool until the water is just hand hot. Empty out the water and keep a basin-full for rinsing the Stainless Steel scrubbers which will easily remove all the crud and leave the inside of the tank looking amazing.

Try a scrubber on an ordinary piece of copper, you'll be amazed at the result and it makes the copper tarnish resistant but the scrubbers must be Stainless Steel

AM

Icefever wrote:Right I've got the chance of a used clean copper tank, heater fitted and working. Now what's going through my noggin is to use this to make my still. Cut it down to say 40/50 liters, make the top from what's cut from the middle.

Stop.

Before you cut the boiler let me just say, If you cut a hot water boiler in 2 it will lose all the rigidity. All the strength is in the thick top and bottom domes, the side walls are VERY thin.

Also the standard way for the element to be fitted is in the top dome, which is fine for a hot water tank which is always completely full of liquid, this is not how a still works, so you need to cut and solder a flange down near the bottom.

Soldering on such a large piece also requires quite a bit of heat, so you will soften the copper around the flange, so it probably best to work harden it again.

You can have a lot of head room in a still - so make sure you really want to reduce the size.

I'd be tempted to figure out an opening in the copper dome, rather than cutting the sides, this will keep the boiler rigid.

Have a plan before you make a cut, sleep on it for a bit. You'll figure out what's what.

That's got me thinking now Capt, the element is in the bottom of the tank already.
I can't have the tank full size because I don't have the room in the brew-house, space is a premium, on account there ain't any left.

I need time to look at this build, and like you said sleep on it, talk to you guys on here and then make a plan.

On the rigidity, what if I solder or copper rivet a band around the tank at the point I want to cut?? I've no problems about working with copper, when you watch the videos on the claw hammer site that guy starts off with a flat sheet, now I'm not sure if I want to go down that road.

The one good point is the tank is only costing me a drink...so it's not like laying out £££££ and then cocking it up. If it goes pear shape I can always take what's left down the scrap yard.

Is VWE strong enough?

I used to buy disgustingly dirty demijohns from boot sales dirt (pun ha ha) cheap. Mostly dregs where the liquid had evaporated years before.

VWE brought them back a treat but it needed to be soak a few days.

I agree with Capt about the soldering etc. However, you could look at an Essex Flange.

Just my two penneth.

John51 wrote:Is VWE strong enough?

I used to buy disgustingly dirty demijohns from boot sales dirt (pun ha ha) cheap. Mostly dregs where the liquid had evaporated years before.

VWE brought them back a treat but it needed to be soak a few days.

I've done much the same with diluted household bleach,possibly cheaper?
I'm not sure it would do much for a used copper tank though,that may need an acid or physical/mechanical cleaning.Who can guess at the residues it may have acquired during it's previous life?

Robert.

Well I collected the tank yesterday....



It's 39" to the top seam, and 19" dia....



The heater was working when the tank was removed from the house, but I think a new one to play safe..

It has a dent on the base so I've got my thinking head on and I'm now thinking to work from the top down and fit a new base??? that way I could fit a bigger & better element & drain tap

The top is perfect with no damage whatever, if I do work from the top, when I've worked out how deep I'll need for say a capacity of 35/40 liter it may work out the best plan...also fitting a flange for whatever size I want would be easier....would it not???