Modifying Boiler Lid
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Modifying Boiler Lid
Thanks to a post about a bargain plumbing supplies company on here ... I have a quick question!
Would one of each of the following :-
http://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/end-feed-f ... r-6087.htm
http://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/end-feed-f ... e-6083.htm
allow me to punch through a ss lid on a boiler ? Obviously may have to make a cork or silicone gasket !
Any thoughts please ?
Iain
Would one of each of the following :-
http://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/end-feed-f ... r-6087.htm
http://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/end-feed-f ... e-6083.htm
allow me to punch through a ss lid on a boiler ? Obviously may have to make a cork or silicone gasket !
Any thoughts please ?
Iain
-

Iain - Regular

- Posts: 71
- Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 3:56 pm
Re: Modifying Boiler Lid
Iain,
You do not say what size you are using but I will assume 1.1/2" just to answer this post.
Screwing these to items together will join a pipe, but are not particularly suitable for connecting to a boiler lid.
I believe that these are 1.1/2" BSPP threads, Brittish Standard Pipe threads with the last P standing for parallel. If they are BSPP, then there are "Backnuts" that will make a good connection to a lid.
All you will need are one male connectors of the type you have given the links for, and two 1.1/2" backnuts. Backnuts are available in brass or stainless steel, try googling "brass flanged back nuts"
I would suggest the following is easy to make and will provide a good seal. you will need one male connector, one brass back nut and one stainless back nut.
Take one 1.1/2" male adapter and screw on one Brass Back Nut - this will be pushed into the boiler from the outside. Then put one Stainless Back Nuts on the insde of the lid.
To seal it, solder the Brass Back Nut to the copper adapter, this will seal the threads, then use a suitable gasket between the Brass Back Nut and the outside of the boiler lid. Using this method there are no brass parts in the vapour path and not stainless steel to solder.
I would have made a sketch, but my PC has just crashed and I am in the middle of rebuilding it and have limited software. Let me know if you need any clarification.
You do not say what size you are using but I will assume 1.1/2" just to answer this post.
Screwing these to items together will join a pipe, but are not particularly suitable for connecting to a boiler lid.
I believe that these are 1.1/2" BSPP threads, Brittish Standard Pipe threads with the last P standing for parallel. If they are BSPP, then there are "Backnuts" that will make a good connection to a lid.
All you will need are one male connectors of the type you have given the links for, and two 1.1/2" backnuts. Backnuts are available in brass or stainless steel, try googling "brass flanged back nuts"
I would suggest the following is easy to make and will provide a good seal. you will need one male connector, one brass back nut and one stainless back nut.
Take one 1.1/2" male adapter and screw on one Brass Back Nut - this will be pushed into the boiler from the outside. Then put one Stainless Back Nuts on the insde of the lid.
To seal it, solder the Brass Back Nut to the copper adapter, this will seal the threads, then use a suitable gasket between the Brass Back Nut and the outside of the boiler lid. Using this method there are no brass parts in the vapour path and not stainless steel to solder.
I would have made a sketch, but my PC has just crashed and I am in the middle of rebuilding it and have limited software. Let me know if you need any clarification.
- YHB
- Master Distiller

- Posts: 973
- Joined: Sun Oct 23, 2011 1:55 pm
Re: Modifying Boiler Lid
Heh heh I was hoping you would see that post ! 
Yup follow exactly what you mean ... not quite sure what pipe i would use ... 54mm would be ideal i guess but very unstable due to weight .. but then I guess I might have to make a stand up to stabilise everything
I have seen an end cap used that's drilled out but using one of the above fittings seems a neater solution ... also I could pop a cap on the end of the fitting and use the boiler as a boiler
thank you .. slowly getting a design together for a pot still for stripping
Iain

Yup follow exactly what you mean ... not quite sure what pipe i would use ... 54mm would be ideal i guess but very unstable due to weight .. but then I guess I might have to make a stand up to stabilise everything

I have seen an end cap used that's drilled out but using one of the above fittings seems a neater solution ... also I could pop a cap on the end of the fitting and use the boiler as a boiler

thank you .. slowly getting a design together for a pot still for stripping

Iain
-

Iain - Regular

- Posts: 71
- Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 3:56 pm
Re: Modifying Boiler Lid
Be Careful.
If you are going to use the boiler for distiling then you will need to introduce a seal to the lid, If you forget and leave the seal on the lid and put a cap on the outlet - KABOOM!!!!
The end-cap solution is noy very stable and is harder to seal, using one of these fittings is a lot stronger option, and you can have interchangeable toys on top.
Also with this method the gasket is not in the vapor path, A cardbourd gasket wrapped with PTFE Tape will do very nicely.
If you are going to use the boiler for distiling then you will need to introduce a seal to the lid, If you forget and leave the seal on the lid and put a cap on the outlet - KABOOM!!!!
The end-cap solution is noy very stable and is harder to seal, using one of these fittings is a lot stronger option, and you can have interchangeable toys on top.
Also with this method the gasket is not in the vapor path, A cardbourd gasket wrapped with PTFE Tape will do very nicely.
- YHB
- Master Distiller

- Posts: 973
- Joined: Sun Oct 23, 2011 1:55 pm
Re: Modifying Boiler Lid
looks like it would put brass in the vapour path
Be ideal if it was all copper though !
Iain
Be ideal if it was all copper though !Iain
-

Iain - Regular

- Posts: 71
- Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 3:56 pm
Re: Modifying Boiler Lid
It's brass and some people don't like brass in the vapour path, that's your choice.
A 1/2" compression joint is a great device. A 2" compression joint is a pig. If you think that you can nip these up with a regular spanner forget it. Even after you have gone out and bought a couple of 1 meter long pipe wrenches there still will be a lot of huffing, puffing and cursing.
A 1/2" compression joint is a great device. A 2" compression joint is a pig. If you think that you can nip these up with a regular spanner forget it. Even after you have gone out and bought a couple of 1 meter long pipe wrenches there still will be a lot of huffing, puffing and cursing.
- YHB
- Master Distiller

- Posts: 973
- Joined: Sun Oct 23, 2011 1:55 pm
Re: Modifying Boiler Lid
Thanks for the heads up YHB.
What's the usual way to fit a 2" column to a SS stockpot?
What's the usual way to fit a 2" column to a SS stockpot?
-

John51 - Senior Distiller

- Posts: 434
- Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2012 1:15 pm
Re: Modifying Boiler Lid
John51,
There is no "normal" way yet, We are working on it.
Everyone has different opininions, skills, tools, available material and finances. The solution will be different if you want a copper column a stainless one, if you want it demountable or interchangeable. It will also depend if you have a welder or plumber in the family or a little guy at the end of your street that makes stainless steel exhaust pipes.
Go with what you feel comfortable with, by the time you need another there will be a hobby standard. As I said we are working on it.
There is no "normal" way yet, We are working on it.
Everyone has different opininions, skills, tools, available material and finances. The solution will be different if you want a copper column a stainless one, if you want it demountable or interchangeable. It will also depend if you have a welder or plumber in the family or a little guy at the end of your street that makes stainless steel exhaust pipes.
Go with what you feel comfortable with, by the time you need another there will be a hobby standard. As I said we are working on it.
- YHB
- Master Distiller

- Posts: 973
- Joined: Sun Oct 23, 2011 1:55 pm
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