StillSmart

Cutting the lid and silicone seal is done, just waiting on the loan of a large pipe wrench to finish the boiler end of things.

I did have doubts when I first saw the lid but I'm liking it now that the hole has been cut. The lip on the lid squishes up the silicone sheet a treat. So glad I went for new.

The 64mm hole for the tank connector went easier than I thought. Had to use 2 pieces of timber for support due to the dink in the middle of the lid. Loads of WD40 on the lid and a cheapo 4mm cobalt drill for a pilot hole, stopping every time the WD40 smoked, which was 5 to 10 seconds and then spraying some more on.

The holesaw arbor wouldn't fit in the cordless but just managed to fit in a single speed corded drill I had. Using my newly built power controller, I found the lowest setting it would run at and with lots more WD40, got stuck in.

Was a bit tedious having to keep stopping, no way I wanted the steel to work harden. When it did break through, the metal was only warm, not too hot to hold. About 20% of the hole needed to be deburred, 5 minutes with a file.

I removed the black gasket from the tank connector and cut out 2 extra gaskets from the silicone offcuts so as to match the thickness of the original gasket.

The 32mm clips are from the bay and are really strong. 2 clips 180 degrees apart is enough to let the (empty) boiler be picked up by the lids handle.

Next task is to rig up support for the column so that the boiler doesn't take the weight.

The weight of the column includeing the coil full of water will help keep the lid down.

To strengthen the lid on my tea urn, I cut a timber cover and then screwed the lid to it from the inside. I used stainless screws and put some silicone on the threads to seal them. With your set up, the screws would be behind and protected by your sheet of silicone.

My lid is now stong enough to support the weight of the column and is stiff enough so that it does not oscillate.

It's the Lyne arm that will be the problem, a lot of leverage. The lid holds just the column ok even though it is off centre.

Many years ago I bought weird looking table top vice from a boot sale, have never found a use for it till now. When clamped to the kitchen worktop it holds a piece of 2x2 vertically nice and strong. I got a couple of brass 54mm brackets to hold the pipe. It should hold the Lyne arm ok but I'll probably make a stand for it just to be on the safe side.

I've seen your wooden boiler jacket and you are way more of a craftsman than I'll ever be, I don't have the patience plus I am so slow that even a ratty looking project takes me ages.

The armaflex 25mm insulation that was recommended to me makes a superb insulating jacket with very little effort

I'm doing a similar build, same boiler. Have a look at the screws holding the handle onto the lid, mine used two screws straight into plastic so I've removed it and sealed the holes. The side grips are OK. Also sealed up the two tiny vents stamped in the lid and replaced the tap as there are loads of rubber parts inside it.

Thanks for the tip on the tap. What did you replace it with? Possible to replace the rubber with diy teflon washers?

I wouldn't be overly concerned with the tap material, contact is limited, and my still never has a charge over 30% ABV.
It the hot high-proof ethanol vapour contact further up the still where I'd be careful.

Capt-Cudellez wrote:I wouldn't be overly concerned with the tap material, contact is limited, and my still never has a charge over 30% ABV.
It the hot high-proof ethanol vapour contact further up the still where I'd be careful.

Good point :-)

@ john51 any more news on this,have you got it all set up
any mods done to it

It's on hold till the weather warms up and I can work outside in the dark to anneal the 8mm pipe properly.

No glowing red = dismal failure trying to wind the coil.