StillSmart

I now have a t500 but want to upgrade to a keg type still and was wondering if YHBs condenser would be easily attached to a keg. I would like to build one like that or have one built..

nwshiner.

nwshiner wrote:"how hard would it be to hook something like this"

Sorry but something like what? I cannot see a link or a picture, please post again.

By this I mean the leibig in the pictures above!

I have sent you a PM with regard to connecting your T500 but unfortunatley I do not have any experience with kegs.

I made a 2" like Hillbilly Stills' 2" pot. I can provide a list of materials after work.

List of materials


Pot still head:

fittings:

1 ...... 2" 90° short elbow http://www.mcmaster.com/#5520K66
1 ...... 2" to 1" Reducing Coupling http://www.mcmaster.com/#5520K306
1 ...... 1" to 1/2" Reducing Coupling http://www.mcmaster.com/#5520K303
1 ...... 1/2" Union http://www.mcmaster.com/#5520K91
1 ...... 2" stainless steel sanitary ferrule
1 ...... 2" PTFE sanitary (triclover) gasket

pipe:

Cut to fit 2" pipe to leave no more than 1/8" gap between the 2" elbow and the 2" to 1" Reducing Coupling.

Cut to fit 1" pipe to leave no more than 1/8" gap between the 2" to 1" Reducing Coupling and 1" to 1/2" Reducing Coupling.

Cut to fit 1/2" pipe to leave no more than 1/8" gap between the 1" to 1/2" Reducing Coupling and the 1/2" Union. Nut is on pot still head side of union and needs to be placed before soldering the flanged end of union.

Cut 2" pipe to a length of 12" for the riser.

Install ferrule to riser before soldering 2" 90° short elbow to riser. If ferrule does not slip right in to the pipe, prepare ferrule by scuffing that portion of the exterior of the ferrule to be inserted inside the pipe and then freezing the ferrule for a couple of days.

When ready, heat end of pipe to receive ferrule and drive ferrule into pipe with hammer. To protect ferrule, have a suitable length of 2 x 4 wood at the base of the pipe and on top of the ferrule to avoid deforming the ferrule.

If ferrule slipped right in without any of the effort outline above, it will definitely have to be soldered. Mine required the hammer-press fit method and did not require solder.

Liebig condenser:

fittings:

2 ...... 3/4" x 1/2" x 1/2" Reducing Tee http://www.mcmaster.com/#5520K131
1 ...... 1/2" 90° short street elbow http://www.mcmaster.com/#5520K713


pipe:

The center stops in the reducing tees will need to be filed out. Using a Dremel will make the task easier.

Cut 1/2" pipe to a length of 32" for the product take-off.
Cut 3/4" pipe to a length of 24" for the condenser jacket.

Cut 1/2" pipe to a length of 2 3/4", twice, for each 1/2" tee to attach garden hose secured by worm clamp.


See YHB's photo for the layout of the liebig condenser. The 1/2" 90° short street elbow allows for flexible angle adjustment of the condenser.



There is no need for a thermo port.