StillSmart

As the title says, would somebody please explain the following

Going to start a couple of the Lentil washes tomorrow for the first time in a while. I know some of us don't use PH buffers but I'm one that does as I found the fermentation quicker and more stable than without.

I've read a few posts on here where the Citric Acid and Bicarbonate of Soda are pre mixed for a couple of days, thus forming a solid due to some sort of chemical reaction. Is there any benefit actually doing this or will it have the same effect just pre mixing before adding to the wash.

I've got no problem doing it either way but would just like to know the reason for pre mixing in the first place.

Cheers.

I have never used a buffer and cannot answer your question.
I think the best user here to answer your question would be chill.
Not often around,try searching his posts on the subject?
He is a nice guy and may answer a pm.

When I haven't been drinking Acetone, I usually check my brews daily,for ph and add Bicarbonate of Soda if needed.

Robert.

From memory Hampk had content on the matter.

I am beginning to think this is a basic water problem somehow. Calcium or a mineral deficit.

I've found I have to buffer everything otherwise it seems to take forever to complete a wash - even the excellent kale recipe I'm using now.

I use 50g each of citric acid and sodium bicarbonate which I simply weigh into a small bowl, then dump into 1 litre of cold water in a *large* beaker - it fizzes a lot. A few stirs later and it goes straight in the wash. This buffers the wash pH range to between 3 and 6.

I can't see any benefit in premixing for a couple of days - the chemistry is going to take place anyway, so my view is just make it when you need it.

For those interested, what actually happens is a molecule of citric acid reacts with 3 molecules of bicarb, producing 1 molecule of sodium citrate, 3 of water and 3 of carbon dioxide, hence the fizzing!

If you dry mix, you will get a slow reaction, and the stuff clumps together because of the water released.

Note - it's an endothermic reaction, meaning temperature of the mix will decrease, but in the quantities used, not enough to freeze your fingers!

Note also to be chemically correct, more citric acid is needed than bicarb, but I can't remember what the ratio is, and for our purposes I don't think it's relevant.

I've actually given up on buffering and gone to Robert's method of adding a bit of bicarb if it tests too low. I have mostly been playing with nutrition lately and also found that adding some warmth sped things up (I forget about that every winter). I may try buffering again and see if it makes a difference, but happy yeast may cause less of a pH change.

From memory, to buffer to 5.0 you needed to add equal molecular weights of bicarb and citric acid. It was slightly off of 50/50 but that is probably close enough.

I don't see a need to pre-mix if you will mix in water first and then add. I was making a kilo at a time and you need to separate it into wash-sized amount as it will harden and make it difficult to extract what you want if you leave it all together.

Thanks for the info chaps, much appreciated.

Even though I have one of those bright yellow PH testers, I have also just bought a couple of booklets of PH testing strips from Ebay.

The only wash that I had a 7 day fermentation with was using a buffer right from the beginning. This evening I will try a different approach by first getting the right PH and then testing on a daily basis with both PH stick and papers. At least then I can find whether the stick is working properly and will adjust if neccessary.

Do try your bestest to calibrate the digital stick.
They are not far off, if you do, despite being cheap as chips.
The litmus strips should be your fall back.
Working at the low cost end of the market can work, but sometimes you need a back up.

Robert.