Cleaning old central heating pipes for still build.

[Easydrinker]

Steady on there fella, you will have people wanting to commision jobs!

I'm well impressed.

Robert.

[gaza the instructor]

Been watching with great interest Dave.
You have awesome skills(I have none).
Crack on mate I love it.
Can I hire you when my man cave is finished

[Myles]

So, my planned design is as follows....
From the 54mm tube, a 54mm to 35mm reducing coupler, then a 35mm slow 90 into a 90 street fitting, reducing down to 15mm for the liebig. The outer diamter of the liebig seems very small at 22m, but seems to be the accepted norm. I can't help feeling that a 28mm outer would work better, but what do I know?
As to the length of the liebig, I havn't got that far yet!!
Dave

If you don't mind me stating something obvious - when it comes to the condenser design you need to work backwards.

Lets assume you are using a 3 kW heat source. Condenser size is variable because of coolant flow rates, coolant temp etc but as a starting point I always use the default values on the HD Parent site calculator

So for a 3 kW jacketed condenser you need 1.98 m of 12 mm tube or 1.58 mm of 15 mm tube. Now personally I like 10 mm or 12 mm tubes in my condensers because if you go any bigger you need to think about using turbulators in the vapour path. As 12 mm tube comes in straight lengths it is my default. So lets say you are using 2 m of 12 mm tube (it comes in 2 m lengths) then in 1 piece it is too long for convenience.

However, parallel lengths inside a jacket is easy enough. 4 of 500 mm lengths in a 54 mm jacket is easy to do. Or simply parallel individual liebigs to split the vapour path.

You don't need to make a shotgun style condenser either if you don't want to. You can make a multi tube core for a liebig condenser. The only issue with the multi tube cores (depending on how you build them) is that on some designs they need to be at quite steep angles to avoid pooling of condensate. That's why the shorter 500 - 600 mm condensers are popular as the are generally short enough to mount vertically.

My general method with pot stills though is to put in a pre condenser after the high point. You generally need a downwards sloped bit of tube there anyway, so you might as well use it to reduce the load on the main condenser. I use 35 mm inside 54 mm for that bit and then the main condenser (which can now be smaller)

As for the gap between the vapour tube and the jacket - get that to big and you need to put something in there to create turbulence in the water.

[Dave]

My heat source is going to be 1500 watts....
And my 15mm pipe is going to be crimped, as shown here...https://s16.postimg.io/rm27qblat/condenser.gif
so I think a condenser length of about 600-700mm should prove adequate? The outer tube is going to be 28mm.
What do you think?
Dave

[Myles]

Length is OK. Personally I don't like the crimped inner because at some angles it catches little pools of liquid which just creates smearing of the product.

Now if you can avoid that (have it vertical) then it is no problem. The only major difference will be weight with the 28 being a bit heavier. I do have an alternative for you but will put it in a PM

[Dave]

Thanks for your input!

[Myles]

Actually might as well put it here for info.
You can get central heating manifolds which are a brass 22 mm female cap with sockets in the other end for 10 mm tube. They easily fit inside a 28 mm Tee and through 28 mm tube.

Now for your power level you can build a liebig with 3 of 10 mm tubes with the core just 400 mm long, so it easily goes vertical. Its very close to building a normal liebig, but it gives more surface area to the vapour path.

You can build the liebig core first then just assemble the liebig as normal.
(22 mm tube / manifold / 10 mm tube / manifold / 22 mm tube)

It isn't necessarily any better than the crimped version, but it might be more convenient as it can be shorter.

I used the same method to build my coiled liebig. but that has an overall length of 7 foot for about 8 kW

[Dave]

That's a really interesting design. But,it looks a little complicated for me at my stage of 'stilling experience. I've already ordered my bits and pieces, too. But I'll definitely keep that set up in mind, if and when I decide to up my game......or, if my planned condenser doesn't live up to my expectations!

[Easydrinker]

I do see what Myles states above, regarding pooling and smearing.
Despite my best efforts at building my large air cooled condenser with a decent slope, I suspect that I may have pooling issues.
However,I also suspect that my allowing for it in the cuts means that my product is no worse than if my condenser was perfect and I used a parrot, which I don't.
And I am mostly happy with my products.
What is a few ml of alcohol redirected when you are making it for peanuts?

Have I asked this question before...?
Has anyone actually tried making spirit from Peanuts?

Robert.

[Dave]

http://www.rumgallery.com/_Media/copper ... torts.jpeg

[Icefever]

For me it would be the top photo, given the angle. I don't think there's a lot of difference between the two, that's my 2 cents.

[Myles]

This is a pot still.

Work out where you want the product condenser to be so that the product end is in a convenient place for changing jars etc. Then just work backwards and make the pot riser and arm fit the condenser.

It is all about making it convenient to use.

[Dave]

I think I'm going to have to go the way of fitting an internal heating element after all. I bought a dirt cheap 1500watt hot plate, but it's taking forever to heat just 1 gallon of water to boiling point! You live and learn, eh?
What's troubling me though, is the controller.....can anyone direct me to a reliable but cheap one, that doesn't use a crappo bi-metal strip to control the temp?
Thanks
Dave

[Dave]

No problemo dude...

http://www.expresscateringspares.co.uk/ ... 18-1-0.htm

You may find this of some interest as well..

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00OXMI4WM/ ... exb1M9G370

or this...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00GN6ZD6Q/

Icefever, or anyone that knows. Those elements on amazon are fine in terms of size, wattage, screwthread size, etc, but, how do I control the temperature, and also, what do I cover the terminals with, 'cos they seem to be very exposed and dangerous? You guys must have done it, but electricity isn't my forte! I can follow instructions ok though!

[Runningman]

www.ebay.ca/itm/4000W-AC-220V-SCR-Volta ... 1421463366

Hi Dave what about one of these. Had one for ages. Good bit of kit.
Regards
Runningman