StillSmart

Vino

I have always fancied Rothenburger torch. I agree they are the bees doodahs - but a lot of money though for the occasional user.

I have a proper Weller and a gas bottle, but was amazed how good that cheapy really was - I actually bought it for thawing padlocks !!

Thanks to all who gave advice here.

I do already have such a torch Mash, though running on quite small cylinders. I have been using it for charring pieces of oak.

I also have two grades of steel wool and a variety of abrasive papers.

It seems that I need some pieces of pipe, joints( not the 60'/70's kind), a pipe cutter, burr brush and some flux and I'm good to play?

Do I take it that joints and reducers with integral solder are not used due to either cost, or because the solder is the wrong kind?

I note that some, with small bore pipe, achieve some spiral curves, is this just careful bending or is there a specific technique one has to master?

Once again, thanks.

Do I take it that joints and reducers with integral solder are not used due to either cost, or because the solder is the wrong kind?

Often called Yorkshire fittings. More expensive.. And don't look so nice... And don't clean up as well.. imo.

I note that some, with small bore pipe, achieve some spiral curves, is this just careful bending or is there a specific technique one has to master?

There are a few threads on this. In summary anything smaller (tighter) that a demi-john are better filled with water and frozen before bending. Use spud to bung temporarily. You can buy spirals too.

I don't strive to match Myles' productions and get by on a simple Propane/Butane bottle DIY jobby, I feel no shame

Robert.

Whilst wanting to purchase a variety of reducers pipes, etc., in very small numbers and lengths, I am finding it very difficult to find a supplier who both stocks the items and sells in small or individual quantities.

I have a couple or so of queries yet.


Whilst checking on solder, I noticed it comes in different thicknesses (gauge). I assumed that the finer solder might be for electrical circuitry but, assumption based on none knowledge often leads one astray.

Also, I saw 'flux-cored' solder, are there any benefits to this?

Mash. You mentioned holding the torch in the left hand. Is this because the torch is kept stationary and the solder is moved by the right hand?

When joining a smaller bore pipe to a larger bore, does the hole have to take the outer diameter of the smaller pipe so that it actually goes into it rather than simply butts onto it?

Not Electronic solder. Plumbers. Much thicker. Biro refill thickness.

Joints. Pipe always slide into the coupling. No butt joints.

Your flux is rubbed on the joints. Mulitcore isn't necessary.

Use whichever hand works best. There's a knack to warming the solder and then delivering an accurate dab.

Toper, screwfix aren't the cheapest but they'll likely do all the bits you need.

Yup - B&Q plumbing Dept would carry most of it.

Or a good plumbers merchant - tell'em what you are doing and they are often very helpful. They are often quite interested... and then pay in cash.

I simple pair of mole grips might com in handy to hold stuff in place and/or a old vice.

I have a 10% off code somewhere for screwfix this weekend. It's only good for local store, but there's another leaflet in father in laws house for his local store (different one). I'd bet if you phone them they'll tell you the code for their store and then you can order online and collect.

Mash wrote:Or a good plumbers merchant - tell'em what you are doing and they are often very helpful. They are often quite interested... and then pay in cash.

LOL, I can totally see the attraction of going in and saying I'm making a still.

Ok we're on page 2 now, trying to describe how to solder is hard, it's a lot better to watch a guy who knows what he's doing.

Here's a guy who shows you how simple it is to solder.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRT36jRYfJU

There are other tutorials... just my 2 cents..

I recommend JTM plumbing for all sorts of tube, and end feed fittings they stock most things up to the really big stuff.
You pay for the service, but they are reliable. I've had them phone me asking if it was okay to chop a bit of 2m to 2x 1m to fit in a larger bore tube, as it would reduce the shipping.

http://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/pipe-fittings-c433

Doing something like a parrot with small bore tube is really easy, and I have zero DIY skills. The bigger stuff is more tricky and trying to soft solder 67mm with a hand held torch with the new (kid on) MAPP gas is doable.
Butane is fine for 35mm or under, I like the hotter gas for 54mm as I'm not very good.

If you mess up the small stuff it can be heated up and pulled apart, the bigger stuff can be tricky (read almost impossible for me at least) to desolder in my experience. So it's best to ensure you have enough heat into the work before starting to apply solder.

I was on the verge of ordering when I noticed that suppliers appear to list two different kinds of reducers:

'End Feed Fitting Reducer '
'End Feed Reducing Coupler'

The illustrations in each case would seem to be identical and whilst the sizes do overlap, where they do, the prices are often slightly different.

Can anybody explain the difference between a 'fitting reducer' and a 'reducing coupler'? I don't want to order anything which proves useless.

reducing couplings fit directly on the the end of the tube.

with a fitting reducer, the larger end fits into a reducing coupler fitting.



edit: a pic might explain better.

right hand side of this parrot shows a 22-42 mm coupler on top, with a 22-42mm fitting reducer on the bottom. The larger end is always the male (42mm in this case) and is the same dia of tube of the same size (ie can't be fitted to tube)

Thank you for that.

I apologise if I am being thick but does that mean that given a dimension of 42mm, for a coupler, that would indicate the internal diameter, whilst for the fitting reducer it indicates the outer diameter?