StillSmart

Mash wrote:

Easydrinker wrote:I think you guys sorted this before I arrived, but I have to agree,aside from me using a metal box, purely to help in the oooling aspect.

Robert.

Did you mean oooling as the present participle of 'ooooooo'

You know, the noise often made in response to stainless steel items.

ie It would give it more oooooooo-ableness if it was in metal box.

Properly made me laugh - cracking up here while I type..

Well I will go and stand in a corner! Not only did I miss my typo, but until now the response to it! Which was quite funny.

Robert.

Well after a modest half an hour in wilko, I have what I hope won't electrocute me & run my boiler & pump. It's late so I'm yet to test it but if anyone spots anything glaringly dangerous please shout up....a sparky I am not!




Essentially I think I've made my own dual extension lead, from the plug it goes into the bottom socket for the pump at full juice from the wall. It then goes into the controller before going into the top socket for my boiler to plug into & will run at what ever the controller is set to.
I chose to split it out because whilst it worked fine before & was almost identical to BlueDucks, I couldn't use the other sockets on the extension for the pump as they all were affected by the controller so I got minimal water flow when it got turned down.
Trial run will probably be Sunday

At the risk of being given an 'Elf & Safety badge (ooh-err) you might want to consider some form of cable retention on that, Benoit. You wouldn't want the cable pulling out of the box leaving you grabbing the live end.. A big tie-wrap on the inside of the grommet would help. Better yet, and probably over-engineered - a kettle socket inside the box and a standard kettle lead plugging into it. That way it'll fail safe when it falls on the floor!

hampk's kettle lead idea is pretty good.
But involves more cost, unless you have the bits already.
My cheaper solution, and what I did with mine was to tie a knot in the cable after it enters the box, it will then never pull through the entry hole.

Robert.

That really isn't a good idea.

It may be OK for occasional use but you will find that the cable generates a hot spot (and it can be surprisingly hot) at the knot when in use.

Even improvising a cable stop with something you have to hand (like a bottle cork around the cable) is a better idea.

And don't forget self vulcanising rubber tape. What an absolute marvel that is for all sorts of uses.

There are some big thick cable ties in the boot of the car, I'll remember to grab a couple out of there today. Thanks everyone!
I'm not adverse to the kettle lead socket at all, I have an old speaker somewhere that has them so I could pinch it out of that...I knew there was a good reason to keep it!

Another reason I like the kettle plug idea is it's immediately clear when the thing is unplugged and the box is 'safe'. You *will* want to take the lid off it again, and if you get into the habit of pulling the lead, anyone else who might take it off is ok too!

If I can't rip one out of something else then Maplin sell them for less than £3, I'll get one next time I'm passing. There's 2 of the thickest cable ties I own on there for the time being. I'm thinking of glueing one of the lid clips down to act as a hinge, that way I can open it without putting any tension on the cables. I could store a spare fuse or the power monitor in there when it's not in use then too

I do like the kettle plug idea and I Am pretty sure I going to get into trouble if I suggest hot glue !

Please be careful.

These "kettle" plugs and sockets are used on many appliances they look the same and are interchangeable however they are not the same and using the wrong plug / socket / lead can have unfortunate consequences.

This is a socket / plug connection sold by Maplins

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/2m-iec-male-t ... lack-mk24b

It is not safe to use it for a kettle or a 2.5KW boiler, as I said at the beginning, please be careful especially if you are looking to use cable with a kettle plug that was supplied with a stereo system or computer.

I seem to recall a true kettle plug has a 'key' under the earth pin.

Cable glands are simple.
And cheap.....

Was thinking more like this with a 13a fuse, although packa has nailed it really....I just didn't see any last time I was in there
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/fused-euro-chassis-plug-ft37s

packapoo wrote:Cable glands are simple.
And cheap.....

They are indeed - good point. I still like the obvious connected/disconnected state of the kettle cord though - too easy to leave a captive lead live IMHO!

Benoit wrote:Was thinking more like this with a 13a fuse, although packa has nailed it really....I just didn't see any last time I was in there
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/fused-euro-chassis-plug-ft37s

In years gone by, any old desk top computers that were scrapped I would take out the socket along with the leads.