StillSmart

Rough plans drawn up, any thoughts?

Couple of little things come to mind, not problems, just wondering, I'm sure you have your reasons and I'm just nosey

Why do you have a thermometer at the top of the riser? In a pot still a thermometer serves no useful purpose at that position. Different story on a reflux still but I don't think you're going to be able to use that riser as a reflux column. I have a thermometer mid way down the wall of my boiler simply to tell me when the wash is getting close to vapour temp so I can turn on the coolant to the Liebig but that was only because I had bought it and decided to use it for something .

Also, why are you reducing the end of the Liebig to 10mm, the distillate will happily run straight out of the 15mm pipe it has condensed in

On the hotplate thing, I think you'd need something between the hotplate and the copper base of your boiler to diffuse the heat. I'd worry that the copper could expand very quickly and buckle with the sudden intense heat those hotplates give off when they cycle to on, even at a low setting.

If I was building an all copper boiler I'd consider using a BOP as a water bath, solder three short legs onto the base of the boiler, for stability, and let the hot water heat the wash. A lot gentler than direct heat

Filling and emptying?


Anyway, good luck with the rest of the build. You're certainly on the right road.

Aidan

Thx for the info....

I thought you needed a thermometer on top like I've seen on stils for sale on ebay? If there's no temp guide how do I know when the alcohol is good stuff and not poisonous?

Good idea regarding the stil in water but will it do the job and does the outside water need to be as high as the wash? If yes I could use my 100L brewing boiler..

What's a BOP?

Thx
John

BOP = Big Old Pot aka Large Pot

BarnsleyBrewer wrote:Thx for the info....

I thought you needed a thermometer on top like I've seen on stills for sale on ebay? If there's no temp guide how do I know when the alcohol is good stuff and not poisonous?



Thx
John

I'm loving your enthusiasm.
Maybe you have skipped a little reading.
This
download/file.php?id=326
is a good place for a novice,you may change your methods with experience,but it is a good starting point.
HTH

Robert.

Easydrinker wrote:I'm loving your enthusiasm.
Maybe you have skipped a little reading.
This
download/file.php?id=326
is a good place for a novice,you may change your methods with experience,but it is a good starting point.
HTH
Robert.

Thx, brilliant info and easy to follow, going to crack this soon when all the info slots together in my skull.

Steampunk wrote:As an after thought - how are you going to empty it?
Would it be worth putting some handles or some way of lifting it?
SP

Never thought about handles, lol.. but should be ok because it'll only hold around 10L I'm guessing
But looking around at some stills I'm now drawn to using a 50L keg and going for the the "BIGGIE" with 54mm reflux. and just making a small copper one with liebig for show and small runs??

Anyone know the best place to get a decent stainless keg that's 50L or around 30L?

John

J....take a look at Anavrin's post...also the last post from Ant reads looks like he has a couple for sale??

Steampunk wrote:Not sure of the laws regarding kegs in the UK.

In the UK SP we have a Keg watch site that goes after stolen kegs.
I found 5 kegs only last year in a ditch just down the road...it did cross my mind I must admit..but I did the correct thing and phoned the site, a few days later a van came to pick them up...it's just not worth it.

BarnsleyBrewer wrote:Anyone know the best place to get a decent stainless keg that's 50L or around 30L?
John

Try here http://shop.crusaderkegsandcasks.com/50 ... -145-p.asp

AidanMac

Icefever wrote:J....take a look at Anavrin's post...also the last post from Ant reads looks like he has a couple for sale??

Steampunk wrote:Not sure of the laws regarding kegs in the UK.

In the UK SP we have a Keg watch site that goes after stolen kegs.
I found 5 kegs only last year in a ditch just down the road...it did cross my mind I must admit..but I did the correct thing and phoned the site, a few days later a van came to pick them up...it's just not worth it.

i lived above a pub once 3 years ago .i got friendly with the brewery delivery men and they gave me 2 ss ones for the wife to cut open and make planters with i still have them as garden table bases .im going to ask my mate that still runs the pub if i can have another one for brewing

Bit of riveting & solder yesterday.....
If lets say the top is 210mm diameter will a 22mm outlet hole connecting to 22mm pipe on top be ok or could it cause excessive pressure and fast moving vapour flow?

In my opinion a 22mm riser off the boiler would be OK if the power is kept quite low - no more than 1Kw. To run faster a wider riser would be advisable.

AidanMac

Problem is that the top has a 3/4 threaded hole so I was working around using that.
My thoughts were to connect a 200mm x 22mm pipe then fix on a sloping Liebig around 450mm

Baring in mind my wash charge will be around 10L do you think I'll get away with it?

I reckon it sounds about right. I would probably use a power controller, to get it up to temperature quicker & then turn it down for the run.
10l I would think needs about 600/700W balanced.

I like the repurposed vintage hot water bottle. I'm very fond of this type of reuse

Mashy wrote:I reckon it sounds about right. I would probably use a power controller, to get it up to temperature quicker & then turn it down for the run.
10l I would think needs about 600/700W balanced.

Thx, will keep that in mind..

I'm now thinking about a low wattage heating element that that could go inside the pot but would need to be replaceable from the outside if if knackers up..
Any info as to it it's available to buy?