StillSmart

Hi everyone

Been lurking around on this site for a while so thought I'd better say hello!.

I have been running my Airstill for about a year (Following the great guide on here from Mozr/Aidanmac) which has been a nice introduction to distilling and I have now got the itch and want to move on to bigger and better things.

I have now taken the plunge and will soon be building my first pot still (based on Samohons well known simple design) I will upload some pictures as It gets built...I have the copper winging its way to me as I write this.

I'm now scouring the net looking for a suitable boiler for the 54mm/2" still head I'm going to build, and I'm getting drawn towards tea urn/burco boilers (electric)

Any thoughts on this boiler? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Prodis-WB40-W ... 2ec523cc91

I believe its all stainless but am having difficulty finding literature on it.
I will obviously need to bypass the thermostat too...

I'm not in a hurry, but this one caught my eye as Its a good price for 40Litres with a 3000W element...

Any guidance on boilers much appreciated


-Steve

This company is selling them new for £75, there is a number to call for queries

http://www.classic-retail.co.uk/prodis- ... oiler.html

Thanks YHB

I will drop them an email to see if they have any details.

From what I can gather Prodis is built here in the UK but frustratingly I cant find any direct contact info. for them.

Hi Uber:i use a 50L stainless milk can. I heat with propane so cut the lip off the bottom of the tank as it seemed to catch heat and get the burner too hot. Works great.

Or there is my wife's grandmothers boiler

After starring at the bottom pic for a while - i think i understand its concept !
Which is more than i can say for the boka surgery thread....im really struggling with the concept there....

Rich

monkeyb0yuk wrote:After starring at the bottom pic for a while - i think i understand its concept !
Which is more than i can say for the boka surgery thread....im really struggling with the concept there....

Rich

The boka slant plates are known to concentrate and remove the heads much better than a VM design. And a VM design is known to produce hearts at a rate at least twice faster than a boka and it signals the onset of tails better, but a VM only design may smear more heads across early hearts.

Now, put the two together and have a purer and faster run of hearts than either design, LM or VM, can do on its own. This approach can save hours when processing a boiler charged with 20 L of 35% low wines.

Keystone wrote:

monkeyb0yuk wrote:After starring at the bottom pic for a while - i think i understand its concept !
Which is more than i can say for the boka surgery thread....im really struggling with the concept there....

Rich

The boka slant plates are known to concentrate and remove the heads much better than a VM design. And a VM design is known to produce hearts at a rate at least twice faster than a boka and it signals the onset of tails better, but a VM only design may smear more heads across early hearts.

Now, put the two together and have a purer and faster run of hearts than either design, LM or VM, can do on its own. This approach can save hours when processing a boiler charged with 20 L of 35% low wines.

I think im understanding better...i need to look at the diagram a bit more for it to sink in..i need to get on the pc and see the pics full screen. Its difficult to see and understand on a phonescreen sometimes...
In about a week itll just click then ill pester you with questions :-)

Rich

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Keystone wrote:The boka slant plates are known to concentrate and remove the heads much better than a VM design. And a VM design is known to produce hearts at a rate at least twice faster than a boka and it signals the onset of tails better, but a VM only design may smear more heads across early hearts.

Now, put the two together and have a purer and faster run of hearts than either design, LM or VM, can do on its own. This approach can save hours when processing a boiler charged with 20 L of 35% low wines.

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I like using the combo the few times I have done so, The main advantage to me is you don't contaminate the VM condenser with your heads, so after you have drawn all the heads off via the LM you can switch over to clean hearts on a virgin condenser.

Also a VM "switches off" when you run deep in to tails, it stops producing at around 40%, so If you absolutely must squeeze all the alcohol out of the still charge you can switch back to the LM and run it right down.
I normally don't bother doing this, as there is little alcohol left after running the VM if done correctly, and drawing off those tails really stinks the house up.

Hi Capt Cud
Long time no speak. Your right re the VM combo. Great still to run. I am in the process of building a new head (Proportional Splittinh Head) as described by Harry Jackson Artisan Distillers. Will let you see pics when complete. Hows your Gin experiments coming along. Hope you had a nice Christmas and a good New Year. Speak to you later.
regards
RM

Runningman wrote:Hi Capt Cud
Long time no speak. Your right re the VM combo. Great still to run. I am in the process of building a new head (Proportional Splitting Head) as described by Harry Jackson Artisan Distillers. Will let you see pics when complete. Hows your Gin experiments coming along. Hope you had a nice Christmas and a good New Year. Speak to you later.
regards
RM

Sounds great, would love to see one of those working. Will need to have another pint sometime.

Uber wrote:Hi everyone

Been lurking around on this site for a while so thought I'd better say hello!.

I have been running my Airstill for about a year (Following the great guide on here from Mozr/Aidanmac) which has been a nice introduction to distilling and I have now got the itch and want to move on to bigger and better things.

I have now taken the plunge and will soon be building my first pot still (based on Samohons well known simple design) I will upload some pictures as It gets built...I have the copper winging its way to me as I write this.

I'm now scouring the net looking for a suitable boiler for the 54mm/2" still head I'm going to build, and I'm getting drawn towards tea urn/burco boilers (electric)

Any thoughts on this boiler? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Prodis-WB40-W ... 2ec523cc91

I believe its all stainless but am having difficulty finding literature on it.
I will obviously need to bypass the thermostat too...

I'm not in a hurry, but this one caught my eye as Its a good price for 40Litres with a 3000W element...

Any guidance on boilers much appreciated


-Steve

Have you considered a copper immersion heater cylinder for your boiler? You can get mini ones that hold between 5 to 10 litres or a 40 litre for about £55 new. The only issue with a tea urn is that the heating element is in contact with your wash. Say for some reason the thermostat failed and your boiler gets seriously overheated simply unplugging the element wont reduce the heat quickly enough. An external electrical heat source can however be quickly removed or if using gas the heat can be removed instantly by turning it of.
Their are a vast array of fittings available for immersion tanks and it will save you a lot of time bodging and jury rigging fittings for an urn that will probably need nursing the whole of its short and limited life!

Hi Capt unfortunately my Prop Split Head is now on hold for approx. 6 weeks. Had an operation on my left hand on Saturday morning at St. Johns and I will be out of action for approx. 6 weeks. Yes we must have another pint soon.
Regards
RM

RickyRasper wrote:Have you considered a copper immersion heater cylinder for your boiler? You can get mini ones that hold between 5 to 10 litres or a 40 litre for about £55 new. The only issue with a tea urn is that the heating element is in contact with your wash. Say for some reason the thermostat failed and your boiler gets seriously overheated simply unplugging the element wont reduce the heat quickly enough. An external electrical heat source can however be quickly removed or if using gas the heat can be removed instantly by turning it of.
Their are a vast array of fittings available for immersion tanks and it will save you a lot of time bodging and jury rigging fittings for an urn that will probably need nursing the whole of its short and limited life!

Thanks Ricky, that's another good idea for me to consider. I have my pot still 90% built now, so am on the hunt for a suitable boiler.

I really can't wait to get it working, but I want to find the right boiler that will serve me well for some years down the road...

RickyRasper wrote:Say for some reason the thermostat failed and your boiler gets seriously overheated simply unplugging the element wont reduce the heat quickly enough. An external electrical heat source can however be quickly removed or if using gas the heat can be removed instantly by turning it of.

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Ricky, I have to point out this is not right, and is some bad advice. You cannot control a boiler of wash with a thermostat in the boiler, it just doesn't work.
The boiling point of the liquid is determined by the amount of alcohol, water and other constituents that make up the wash. Also the BP changes throughout the run as the alcohol is depleted.

Also saying an internal element won't reduce the heat quick enough, is also incorrect, an element can never get hotter than the liquid it is immersed in ( unless solids burn on to it) and is no different to heating indirectly. If I cut the power the alcohol stops flowing very quickly.
Heating with an open flame also adds a whole different set of risks when dealing with combustible gasses.

RickyRasper wrote:Their are a vast array of fittings available for immersion tanks and it will save you a lot of time bodging and jury rigging fittings for an urn that will probably need nursing the whole of its short and limited life!

RR

I love my tea urn boiler, I do not consider it "Bodged", it is robust, reliable and does not need "nursing". I cannot see what makes you think that it will have a "short and limited life" as far as I am concerned it will last me for the rest of my life.