StillSmart

As the title

https://www.stilldragon.eu/en/miscellaneous/296-diy-controller-kit.html?search_query=controller&results=16

answers on a postcard to

Horace Batchelor, Department One, Keynsham, spelt K-E-Y-N-S-H-A-M, Keynsham, Bristol

Pretty Much the same as YHB's.
But for what looks like a plastic box.
Why fix a heat sink to a plastic box?

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=1001&p=7821&hilit=power+controller#p7791

I have built a couple of these, using metal boxes, large tins.
The relay and potentiometer cost about £9 delivered from China land.
The heat sinks around £1.
Go back and forth in that link and learn all that you need to know.

Robert.

Easydrinker wrote:Pretty Much the same as YHB's.
But for what looks like a plastic box.
Why fix a heat sink to a plastic box?

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=1001&p=7821&hilit=power+controller#p7791

I have built a couple of these, using metal boxes, large tins.
The relay and potentiometer cost about £9 delivered from China land.
The heat sinks around £1.
Go back and forth in that link and learn all that you need to know.

Robert.

Despite my copious use of the search facility I had not found that particular post, I thank you from my bottom.

Here's mine that I use

http://www.united-automation.com/avr-25 ... scia-dial/

It's expensive, but I've used it for around 5 years now without any problems, it's worked flawlessly.

Like I said it is more expensive but it uses a Triac to alter the phase angle clipping point of the AC wave form rather than clipping out random cycles like an SSR

Anavrin wrote:Here's mine that I use

http://www.united-automation.com/avr-25 ... scia-dial/

It's expensive, but I've used it for around 5 years now without any problems, it's worked flawlessly.

Like I said it is more expensive but it uses a Triac to alter the phase angle clipping point of the AC wave form rather than clipping out random cycles like an SSR

I shall order one come Friday.

Why fix a heat sink to a plastic box?

Industry does. The issue is fit a fan.
Another safety argument could be made for putting them in tin?

I have one of these on a slow boat from China
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141906268720? ... EBIDX%3AIT
At £1.35 delivered I couldn't resist.
I'll get another fire extinguisher too!

Robert.

Does anyone have a wiring diaphragm for one of these, please?

Mine has arrived and I've found a job for it IF I can just figure out what wire goes where....

There're a lot of YT vids out there, all in some foreign lingo. Even the ones with English descriptions are talking Gibberish....
One thing I did glean is the screw on the top of component BAOTER 3296 (?) is for adjusting somefink.

Pack hi...I take it you need a dia for the SSR 40A?? along with the pont??. I'm not sure you may have seen this here on the SD forum...there again you may not.

https://www.stilldragon.org/discussion/ ... diy-wiring

Hope it helps matey.

Ahh, Iceman, sori tru!
Did not make myself clear. Thank you for your interest.

I should have cross referenced to Robert's last post on the ebay controller.

I have a water bed heater I use very occasionally as a fermenter warmer.
Trouble is, it's pretty fierce so is a PITA to set up safely. Handles two fermenters easily so is good in that sense.
Recently powered it thru a STC 1000 and noticed it overshoots by 5 degrees on cut off, so figure if I can dial the grunt back I might have something useful and potentially more fireproof.
And I have this little gizmo lying around, if I can wire it.

When the slow boat from China land docks and I gain another toy, I shall play and post results.


Robert.

Have just discovered it's in the (very) fine print. Apparently....

As you look at the gizmo with the wiring block at the bottom, etched almost hidden by the heat sink is 'in', above terminals 1 and 2. On the other end above 3 and 4 is out.

Seems 1 in is neutral, 2 is live. 3 out is live and 4 is neutral.

If I fry myself you won't hear of me again....

You do get what you pay for which is why I use United Automation gear. Even if you don't it is worth looking at the UA datasheets. Expecially when it comes to sizing of heatsinks.

Personally I use metal boxes, and a fan. The use of a heatsink depends on it being able to get rid of the heat either by natural air circulation, or if it is inside a relatively small box by fan assisted circulation.

If you let the heatsink get hot it isn't going to do much good.

For a 16A controller the metal box is the heatsink, but for a 40A controller I add a 100mm x 100mm x 32mm heatsink, both use 80x80 fans that shift over 50 m3 per hour.

Thank you Myles, had been thinking cooling. Now you've given me another idea to trial.

This is the one I've got, there's a video on youtube showing how to wire it up too, works great!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01 ... UTF8&psc=1

Here's the video..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYyAA6mnTPo