Brewbuilder element
7 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Brewbuilder element
I was looking at this element for my new build https://www.brewbuilder.co.uk/3kw-lwd-elements.html are they still trading, there is no contact number and I have had no reply to email.
As per a previous post someone stated this element has a 1" BSP thread (still to confirmed) but when looking at ferrules they measure the threads in DN, so I would guess DN25 would be around an inch but are the 2 threads compatable..
I see still dragon do an adapter so this may be the cheapest way out although I would rather buy a tap from ebay for a few quid and convert a ferrule blanking cap if it's thick enough, which it may not be.
As per a previous post someone stated this element has a 1" BSP thread (still to confirmed) but when looking at ferrules they measure the threads in DN, so I would guess DN25 would be around an inch but are the 2 threads compatable..
I see still dragon do an adapter so this may be the cheapest way out although I would rather buy a tap from ebay for a few quid and convert a ferrule blanking cap if it's thick enough, which it may not be.
-

Maker - Experienced Distiller

- Posts: 176
- Joined: Tue Dec 12, 2017 12:03 am
- Stills: KEG
Re: Brewbuilder element
That one you’ve linked to is too long for a 50 litre keg mate
-

H12rpo - Senior Distiller

- Posts: 440
- Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2017 11:06 pm
- Location: Wales somewhere
- Stills: T500
Re: Brewbuilder element
It says 350mm, I've not measured the keg but I'm sure it's wider than that..if not I'll just space the ferrule with some 2" tube I already have.
-

Maker - Experienced Distiller

- Posts: 176
- Joined: Tue Dec 12, 2017 12:03 am
- Stills: KEG
Re: Brewbuilder element
It is a good element. I have one fitted to one of their 33 litre flat bottom fermentation vessels. It is the boiler for my gin rig.
I also have the 5.5kW version mounted in my 80 litre cask boiler.
This one.


Brewbuilder gear is intended for beer so they use 1.5" ferrules. The ferrule to element adaptor works perfectly. I have no doubt that the elements would also fit the 2" TC to 1" threaded adaptors.
They do have other sizes available and are answering email and trading still. Try again.
I also have the 5.5kW version mounted in my 80 litre cask boiler.
This one.
Brewbuilder gear is intended for beer so they use 1.5" ferrules. The ferrule to element adaptor works perfectly. I have no doubt that the elements would also fit the 2" TC to 1" threaded adaptors.
They do have other sizes available and are answering email and trading still. Try again.
-

Myles - Master Distiller

- Posts: 692
- Joined: Tue May 07, 2013 12:43 pm
Re: Brewbuilder element
That is some really tidy work there, puts mine to shame.
Lardy has contacted me tonight so hopefully we can get something sorted quickly.
Did you do that work yourself Myles, I do admire a nice weld!
Lardy has contacted me tonight so hopefully we can get something sorted quickly.
Did you do that work yourself Myles, I do admire a nice weld!
-

Maker - Experienced Distiller

- Posts: 176
- Joined: Tue Dec 12, 2017 12:03 am
- Stills: KEG
Re: Brewbuilder element
If you are referring to the weld on the pad on the cask then NO. That was done buy the cask builders - this was a brand new cask that I bought specifically to turn into a boiler.
What I did though was to braze the brass ferule to the stainless insert. The ridged insert that takes the big bung just happened to be an exact match for the 2 inch brass ferrule. I brazed it with 55% silver solder. It is not as pretty a joint as I wanted but it took a lot of heat even with my biggest propane torch.

It is a very solid joint though.
The other joint was the 1.5 inch ferrule that I fitted where the tap goes on the cask. This is for a 5.5 kW element.
I was pleased with that joint. I forced a bit of 35 mm copper tube into a 1.5"/38 mm stainless ferrule. The inside bore of the ferrule is 35 mm so it was an exceptionally tight fit. I then soldered the copper tube to the ferrule with cupalloy 2207. This is a 4% silver solder specifically for soldering stainless steel. Then I hammered the short bit of copper tube into the tap bung on the cask and when the ferrule was flush with the stainless flange on the cask I soldered them together just to make sure.
That joint would probably be leak free without solder but it is absolutely leak free now.
The brewbuilder element passes through the 35 mm tube with ease.
What I did though was to braze the brass ferule to the stainless insert. The ridged insert that takes the big bung just happened to be an exact match for the 2 inch brass ferrule. I brazed it with 55% silver solder. It is not as pretty a joint as I wanted but it took a lot of heat even with my biggest propane torch.
It is a very solid joint though.
The other joint was the 1.5 inch ferrule that I fitted where the tap goes on the cask. This is for a 5.5 kW element.
I was pleased with that joint. I forced a bit of 35 mm copper tube into a 1.5"/38 mm stainless ferrule. The inside bore of the ferrule is 35 mm so it was an exceptionally tight fit. I then soldered the copper tube to the ferrule with cupalloy 2207. This is a 4% silver solder specifically for soldering stainless steel. Then I hammered the short bit of copper tube into the tap bung on the cask and when the ferrule was flush with the stainless flange on the cask I soldered them together just to make sure.
That joint would probably be leak free without solder but it is absolutely leak free now.
The brewbuilder element passes through the 35 mm tube with ease.
-

Myles - Master Distiller

- Posts: 692
- Joined: Tue May 07, 2013 12:43 pm
Re: Brewbuilder element
Hi Guys
StillDragon have a few adapters for 1” threads, both male and female, they’ve been out of stock for while now but just yesterday I spotted they have some popular one back in
https://www.stilldragon.eu/en/16-adapters
It’s worth noting the at a size of 1” NTP and BSP are compatible, I’ve just bought a 2” triclamp to a 1” male thread, so I can connect my 1” ball valve to the side of my column to make a VM takeoff.
StillDragon have a few adapters for 1” threads, both male and female, they’ve been out of stock for while now but just yesterday I spotted they have some popular one back in
https://www.stilldragon.eu/en/16-adapters
It’s worth noting the at a size of 1” NTP and BSP are compatible, I’ve just bought a 2” triclamp to a 1” male thread, so I can connect my 1” ball valve to the side of my column to make a VM takeoff.
- Anavrin
- Master Distiller

- Posts: 1468
- Joined: Fri Apr 04, 2014 12:15 pm
- Location: By the Sea
- Stills: 4” StillDragon Dash
7 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest
