Boiler Temp Controller

[vino-tinto]

I have read some opinions that the boiler in the T500 is too powerful and can easily impart taste into the spirit because it burns the wash. What if I were to build a 2000W power controller for my T500, could I use it like this.

Let the boiler get up to temp so that the fores start to run, then turn down the control to say 1500W so as to keep the temp high enough to boil without it burning the wash.

Or am I barking up the wrong tree so to speak

[billmcc]

If you warm up on full power then drop the power to about 1kw and maintain 100% reflux for about 30 mins then slowly collect fores and heads then increase the power to collect hearts your product will be cleaner.the cooling management still is good for heads compression.

[Spudnik1954]

Ok so where do I get one of these controllers?

[billmcc]

Here is a good read

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=1001

[YHB]

Here is another one, this has links to bits to buy and complete ones off the shelf (I don't believe I just said that)


viewtopic.php?f=15&t=735

[vino-tinto]

I was going to build it myself, but I have just found this, ideal for the job.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0976380240
All you need to do is connect a cable with a plug and another with a socket to the 4 connectors and gang the earth's as common.

[YHB]

The heat sink on the 2kw model looks very small compared with others I have seen.

Make sure the box you put it in is well ventilated and big enough to add a fan should the heat sink gets warm.

[vino-tinto]

The heat sink on the 2kw model looks very small compared with others I have seen.

Make sure the box you put it in is well ventilated and big enough to add a fan should the heat sink gets warm.

Yep, know what you mean. I've got some alloy project boxes that I would mount it into and put a graduated scale around the control knob.

[Capt-Cudellez]

The 3800w one is the same price and has a much chunkier heatsink.

I found running the T500 at about 1100-1400w during the hearts gave good results, but upgraded my equipment before playing too much with it.
If you are running at different power settings and using the cooling temp as your control guide, then if you are putting less power in you need to come up with new temps to aim for.
So if you currently run at 55oC, You might have to run the temps to the high 60's to get the same output. You'll need to do some playing about to find what works for you.

Another possibility if you find that controller give you fine control of the power, might be to equalise the still with the cooling stopping all the product coming off, then increase the power to get the product off. You might find this easier to control than fiddling with the cooling valve.

Good luck.

[vino-tinto]

If you warm up on full power then drop the power to about 1kw and maintain 100% reflux for about 30 mins then slowly collect fores and heads then increase the power to collect hearts your product will be cleaner.the cooling management still is good for heads compression.

Using the specs of my T500 boiler which are 240V with a 2000W element, the resistance must be 28.8 ohms, and as the resistance is a constant in this case, I should in theory, if I reduce the voltage, reduce the wattage.
So if I reduce the voltage to 200V after warm up, and using the equation VxV/R that should work out at 200x200/28.8 = 1389W this should be more than enough to do the job.

Now say that 1389W keeps the wash boiling OK, why would I need to increase the wattage for the hearts if I keep water temp management under control, or would the lower water flow rate effect the cooling of the condenser.

[YHB]

The low gentle heat input at the beginning allows the fores / heads to stack up in the column and be removed without being disturbed by violent boiling. (I use 600w to 700w - it depends on how draughty your shed is and how much insulation you use)

Once you are taking the hearts, increasing the amount of vapour but restricting the output increases the reflux ratio and gives you a cleaner / stronger product.

[Capt-Cudellez]

I do it pretty similar to YHB.........

Bring the still upto temp at 2800W.

Turn down to 800w, leave in 100% reflux for 20-30mins.

Remove heads.

Increase power to 1600w, equalise for 15-20 mins.

Take off hearts.

[John51]

I've got a power controller for my yet (never?) to be built diy still. After sampling the product from my first low temp run with the T500, any thought of using the power controller went.

I use extra water flow instead.I start the run with the needle valve open and use the sink tap to give just a bit too much flow. Takes just over an hour and a quarter to get the top of the column hot and I then leave it in total reflux for about 20/30 minutes. (Too lazy to clean the column any other way.)

Then I adjust the flow to give 40/42'C. This is with 6kg sugar and Vodka Star yeast. Painfully slow, about 3 hours or so from turn on to collecting 500ml of fores/heads. These go down the sink or into my cleaning spray bottle. (Once again, too lazy to bother recycling heads.)

About half way through the first litre of hearts, I wind the temp up to 46/48'C and collect a total of 3L of hearts, which to me and my fellow samplers, needs no filtering.

The extra run time is offset by time saved not filtering and is much less effort, which I like.