StillSmart

ok guys ive finaly made a start on building a parrot and a double coil
comments,views,and a few pointers are welcomed

the distillers parot,this was my first attempt at making one just a bugger
where the pipe comes in at the bottom,but i got there after a few attempts
to solder it without blowing the solder from the end cap,by resting the piece
on top of a block of wood,give it a quick clean inside and out,but a bit concern
about the inside at the bottom where there pipe comes in,just cant clean it better
just got to figure out on what type of stand to make either a fixed type or a adjustable type (probably go with the adjustable type)










and now the double coil,this was my fourth attempt of making these,previous
3 got chopped up and put in scrap tub before realising a should of took some pixs
i started off i made a jig using a half inch bar between two pipe holders (the type
to fix the pipe to a wall) a nut welded on one end,made some eye bolts to go thru the bar,but everytime i started to wind the coil the start of it got twisted,so i tried
filling it with salt and that wernt to bad but still kinked too much,so i ended up
doing it by hand,using about 20mm plastiic conduit,and 30mm waste pipe
must admit it is better then the previous ones,tested it to see how much water was
going thru and its about 900mls for 30 seconds(the tap wasnt turned on that much)
the inner coil is slightly touching the out one,but if i bring it to the middle more
its not touching,should be able to sort that when its on the end cap,undecided
whether to go with anavrin way of using compression fittings,or solder to the end cap (just hope the tail on the middle coil is long enuff)















whats your thoughts and views,any pointers and that are welcomed

I know nothing a out parrots but the coil looks nice. When you say you did it by hand, did you fill it with anything?

I made mine using a 12" solid piece of SS rod for the inner coil and a piece of SS pipe for the outer coil. I know there's a post with details and pix somewhere hereabouts

Nice job on both Magnu420. Solid workmanship that will last

AM

Found it and acknowledgement to Hook (from HD I think) who wrote the guide I used and I found it very easy once I read this.

great start..

iirc i collected less than 50l (1 change over of 25l collecting cans) exiting my cooling (top coil and short liebig condeser) last time i ran my 2" boka column, and it was running a lot longer than an hour so your flow rate thru the coil is Ample..

Great minds think alike, here's mine I almost forgot I made it as I've not used it yet

@ ant i followed the guide what aidan put up

should i be concern about the solder whats filled the bottom of parrot or would
the cleaning run and practice run with junkahol will end up cleaning it a bit more

im comtemplating to do another coil or try squeeze it together more

nice i am not that crafty

KerryW wrote:nice i am not that crafty

i aint neither ...i been out of the engineering buissiness about 15 years now

imho the coil is fine.. i looked at mine after i made it and thought it was a good idea to stick a 15mm tube cold finger down it.. it was a lot of effort re re re re re re resoldering..
and i now need to really throttle back the flow through it,

as for the excess solder as long as you used lead free and clean away all the flux residue its just tin and antimony which are afaik ok metals to be in contact with the output so dont worry.

So, Whats up next?

edit slip a pulled apart stainless steel scrubbie up the coil core if you think its too big a gap, ..but it isnt

thanks fil
the parrot did have a acid bath for a few days (white vinegar,salt and water)
i might try some ss scrubbies in middle of coil

what next lol i need to get the cap end sorted and solder the tails on to it
then i can start doing the slots for the boka

Hi Magnu420

I fitted my coil through the cap with compression fittings a you know, but if I was you now I would try and solder them through the cap, the fittings work and it allows you to change the coil if it gets damaged but there's very little space on the inside of the cap to tighten the compression fitting up and you need a lot of PTFE tape to stop any leaks, I worry that it might leak during use, where as if it was soldered, it would be one less thing to worry about.

Antimony? Really? That is related to arsnic. I was taught that the egyptians usef it as eye make up and suffered ill health as a result. Larger quantities no doubt but are you sure that's safe?

just a question guys ive seen pixs of coils some go into
the end cap and some are like a inch from the end cap
(I would put some pics up but on phone) is it better to have
the coil up inside the end cap or is it just preferance. does both
ways still do the same job also would I benefit if I put a copper
disk perforated with holes on top of the coil soldered on between
the tail pipe

my coil sits an inch or so under the cap mainly due to the desire not to kink the 6.4mm tube as it exits.. i have taken a few pics to illustrate..

tho only the one will load??

hope that helps, btw i tried to solder mine in place but by the time the cap had heated up the flux had burnt off the thin tubes so it didnt hold, ive not bothered to reattempt it as it works just fine as is...

fwiw my coil sits in a tube with a diy flange that ajoins it with a 64mm clamp to a diy flange on the top of the collection module. this design allows/needs a nice fat ptfe wrapped card 'everlasting gasket' to seal and as a side effect insulate the condeser tube somewhat from the hot collection head, so the fact my coil brushes the tube sides a little isnt a biggy