StillSmart

What you're suggesting is the method used by a lot of brewers using this set up for mashing.

Sure is. Mash bags are easier. Grainfathers and braumeisters are easier still.

I am of another opinion.

I do have an 'Electrim' mash tun which has a bare heating element inside the vessel. To avoid allowing grain to settle around the element and burn on I use a suspended bag for the grain.

I also have a second tun which has a covered element in the base. However, as the metal of the base is thin, hot spots can occur which could cause burning on of the grain so, again, I use a suspended bag.

In the situation you describe, an insulated tun with no active heating, means all you are doing is holding the grain at a set temperature for a set time. Given that you have both a spigot and a filter in place I can see no real need for a bag to be used,

You could well find it less messy relying on the filter and spigot.

I can't comment on Grainfathers and braumeisters, viewing those as the domain of beer brewers that have gone over to the dark side.
Brew with or without a bag is messy for me for whisky.
But I put's up with it for the final product.

Robert.

A message from the dark side.

I used to preheat the isolated mash tub with a kettle of boiling water. This also gives it a clean. Seal up for ten mins then discard.
Tie bag over the side or use spring clips.
Pour in the grain.
Pour in water at 72c (say)
Stir
Read temp. Adjust to 66c (say)

I always found it easier to cool water then heat it. You can add cold you should never add boiling water.
Start 1c high
Seal up. 1 hour later mash done. Lift up bag and wring out.

Thanks for that input.
That is basically what I do with AG.
I add one more layer of temps. On the way up.
I still find it messy.
But generally do this late at night, after a shandy or two.
Call me Mr Messy, I tell it like it is.

Robert.

It is messy.
The brew bags help. But it is still a palaver.

Braumeisters or Grainfathers just take away the pain. I couldn't go back now.

The new Bulldog is supposed to be very good and sensible money.

Just stripped the all barley wash through the pot head and I've got an (albeit very pale) amber coloured distillate.....is this common?
Perhaps it will go clear when I do the spirit run?

Not that I'm bothered .....just wondered that's all

Edit....the only difference between this wash and my last (which was cloudy but not coloured), was that I used about a gallon of pot liquor in the making of the mash

There should be no colour whatsoever in your strip result.

Any such colour is an indication that you have brought some of the wash over through the condenser.

It could be:
An over-filled boiler. You do need to leave headroom.
Too much heat too rapidly,.
More boil enhancers needed.
Too viscous wash which hasn't fallen clear sufficiently.

All that should get through the condenser is alcohol and distilled water.

A very good rinse through will be advisable before a re-run.

I have to +1 Toper here.
Apart from his point #4.
My cloudy unsettled brews always distil clear.

But I do have a tall pot still column, so maybe that would negate/validate the other points that he raised?

BUT, distillate from strip or spirit run should always be clear as water.
If they are not, then you have a problem.
Do not drink.
Try re-distilling.

Robert.

+1 should be clear.
The guys have said it all.

Toper wrote:
You could well find it less messy relying on the filter and spigot.

Thats the big benefit I see for using a bag. How do you control the temp in the Electrim?

The 'Electrim' has a digital thermostatic control. Temperature ranges (max/min) can be set.

Due to the naked element inside the vessel, I constructed a rudimentary false bottom and also had a bag made up to the internal dimensions of the vessel.

I do have to remove the element periodically to thoroughly cleanse it of baked on deposits.

I have it, but do not recommend it

Malted barley and LME wash just finished this morning .....by my calculations it's at 6.2 abv
I've just ran it ..(fast..strip) and got a gallon.
Trouble is that the foaming issue I had with the last run has happened again? So much thick foam that even after scooping loads out and adding 3drops of still spirits anti foam and not filling to the max line but a good 2 litres below it ........it's still puking and making the distillate cloudy with a bit of an oil slick on the surface .The last strip run I used two table spoons of the crisp n dry veg oil and it foamed....what am I doing wrong? Should I perhaps be leaving it longer before running / stripping?
When I transfer to the boiler the beer drops about a foot into the container I'm racking into and it's here that the foaming starts.
I've even tried degassing by whisking the beer in the boiler hoping that would dissipate the head but it just makes it worse!
Arrrrggggghhhh!

Your got a Gallon? What % abv?

The Mash process of the grain element might not have converted all starches in the grain, an iodine test would immediately show if this is so. Although, having now boiled it, I think little may be done about that.

A wash made up from grain and LME can be very viscous. A lot of turbo yeasts will quite often only use any granulated sugar but little of the sugars from the grain and LME. Choose a yeast recommended for your ingredients.

Unfermented solids can create this viscosity. You don't actually quote figures but it would be interesting to know your final hydrometer reading of the fermentation.

The maximum level mark in the boiler will, in most instances, be more for filling for the spirit runs. A stripping run requires far more head room. Here, not having a T500, which I think you said you have, others might be able to give you more exact maximum quantity for stripping, if no such information is included in a users manual.

Just as a matter of illustration, I have a 35litre boiler, on a Pot Still system, but never put more than 23 litres in for a stripping run. I know that one can't necessarily relate figures from one system to another but it is an indication of the head room I leave with mine.


Having brought wash/wort through the system, a thorough cleansing, right through the lyne arm and condenser will be needed. If not done, any future strip run will also be tainted.