StillSmart

I'm making a pot head for my T500 boiler.
The copper pot pipe is 54mm bore x 400mm high, 90 degree bend and reducers to 15mm.
What size do I make the Liebig condenser, It will be adjustable from horizontal to 45 degrees. I had in mind 22mm over 15mm x 750mm long, does that sound about right

Condenser size is determined by the maximum power available for the boiler. What do you use on your T500?

I always use the default settings on the condenser calculator as a benchmark, and your proposed condenser is good for 1430 watts at a coolant flow rate of 0.6 litres / min (coolant temp change 15 to 50 degC)

Just a benchmark, as there are many variables, increased coolant flow = more thermal capacity etc.

Personally, I would not go for the sharp reduction but would try to taper it instead, or reduce in steps.

Liebig condensers are most efficient when vertical, but there is not a huge variation in their capacity. Make the riser as high as you like, so the condenser is in a user friendly position.

OK taken on board, I will extend the riser, and after the 90 bend fit spacers between the reducers to give a longer taper, this will allow me to fit the condenser vertical.
The boiler has variable control between 1000 & 2000W

You will find that the actual wattage of the T500 element is 1800 watts not 2000

Admiral Toad wrote:You will find that the actual wattage of the T500 element is 1800 watts not 2000

When I constructed my controller I installed a volt and amp display, and when I tested it, the element draws a little over 8 amps which gave me just under 2000W.
I do have a full 240V supply, that may be why I get the full whack.
If you were to have 230V which is the norm in lots of the UK, then you would have just over 1800W

Living out in the sticks,and at the end of an overground supply,using power-meters etc was a real experience.Even my own freezer switching on to freeze cycle would knock a hundred or two watts from the boiler that I was using.
I live with tired electricity,it comes here to die.
Robert.

vino-tinto wrote:OK taken on board, I will extend the riser, and after the 90 bend fit spacers between the reducers to give a longer taper, this will allow me to fit the condenser vertical.
The boiler has variable control between 1000 & 2000W

What is quite convenient after your tapered section is to fit a bend. Either a 45 or a 90, then a straight compression connector or union and then add a matching bend to the top of the condenser.

That way you can use the connector/union/triclamp as a rotating joint to set the condenser to any angle that is convenient.

Myles wrote:

vino-tinto wrote:OK taken on board, I will extend the riser, and after the 90 bend fit spacers between the reducers to give a longer taper, this will allow me to fit the condenser vertical.
The boiler has variable control between 1000 & 2000W

What is quite convenient after your tapered section is to fit a bend. Either a 45 or a 90, then a straight compression connector or union and then add a matching bend to the top of the condenser.

That way you can use the connector/union/triclamp as a rotating joint to set the condenser to any angle that is convenient.

2 stage.jpg

That's exactly what I was going to do, after watching 10's of YouTube's I got the same idea.