Voltage regulator

[GrunthosTheFlatulent]

I've been having problems with my T500 with the temperature going haywire and hot spirit gushes out of the condenser, so I'm having a complete rethink.

I have removed the stainless pot scrubbers which may have been too tightly packed, not allowing the reflux to fall back into the boiler, and I am re-packing with copper and stainless saddles.

I have also bought a "voltage regulator" like this one off eBay.

Mains supply goes through a fused switch. Neutral and earth go straight to a 13 amp socket. Live goes via this regulator.

When I stick a multimeter across the output terminals, set to AC voltage, and turn the regulator knob, the meter reading is unchanged.

If I plug in a motorised device and turn the knob, then the motor speed does vary from zero to maximum.

What am I missing? How do I calibrate this thing?

[Mash]

Don't know but I am guessing this is changing the frequency.

Bit puzzled what motor are you regulating on a T500?

I ask because motor loads and element loads are regulated in a different way. The first inductive the latter resistive. Ebay is a little misleading at times and all controllers are not made equal.

Get some proper advice. If it is elements there are a few threads on here already

[GrunthosTheFlatulent]

I haven't tried plugging in the T500 boiler yet, my meter said voltage was unchanged as I turned the control knob so I plugged in a hand blender to see if this regulator was working.

I just want to be able to turn down from a rolling boil to a gentle simmer when this thing gets up to temperature.

[Anavrin]

Hi Grunthos

You might find that it needs a load connected in order to work, some semi conductor devices need to have a load connected in order to work like Triacs Etc

Although as its quite cheap price wise so it probably has an SSR, some of these devices cut pulses from the AC waveform, in this case the peak voltage would remain the same, however the power to the load is reduced by the number of pulses being cut out, you would need to look at the output with a oscilloscope to see exactly what's going on but let's face it, no many people have one of those lying around!

I would get a cheap plug in power meter so you can see the numbers change and test it, if your worried about damaging the T500, test it on a kettle.

[Myles]

Unfortunately it is a motor controller and not a heater controller. It will work but not as well.

Motor controllers are intended for inductive loads, heater controllers for resistive loads.

To callibrate any controller you need to measure the current flowing in series in the element leg, and the voltage between the element legs.

BOTH the current and the voltage on the output side of the controller change at the same time.

[Leatherman]

Hi,

Didnt want to make new post, so try to post here.

I have a set of t500 reflux and now want to upgrade to pot still. As I read, there is highly recommended to have voltage generator. Can someone give an example of which generator I could buy and stay safe not burning my boiler? Because I am not very good in electronics

Thanks for your answers.

[H12rpo]

As far as I'm aware the t500 doesn't NEED a power controller to run as a pot still. There's a thermometer on top of the lyne arm and you make cuts in the spirit as determined by the temperature displayed

[Easydrinker]

If you always still the same, stripped wash, after running that wash a number of times you may well be able to make cuts based upon temperature.
It would still be wise to collect in small quantities, and after airing let your nose and tongue determine the cut.

You would need to lose the column from the T500, or at least empty it.
Otherwise it remains a reflux still, at whatever power you use.

There may be a way to run it that I do not know?

Robert.

[H12rpo]

Ah sorry I assumed that the question was about running the t500 with the alembic dome and condenser option.....the manual advises using the temp display on tne lyne arm go make the cuts.........with the column the temp display shows the temp of the condenser cooling water exiting the condenser.
There doesn't seem to be any point in using a power controller when using the alembic pot still option with the T500 unless I've missed something ?

[Easydrinker]

Would I sound really Draconian if I advised you not to believe a single fecking word of any manual issued with any commercialy available still?
The still may be OK, the instruction shite.

"Hey, dead frogs and toads when you mow the lawn, roadkill skunks, badgers and coon's!"

Throw them all in that wash bucket.

I can, and frequently do, talk shit to counter what is available elsewhere.

It does throw curve balls into my own head.

Robert.

[Leatherman]

Yes. I had in mind pot still condenser, but without coper alembic dome (its a bit to expensive to order all in once). I know how reflux is working have one. But now want to go in pot stilling, about to order it today or tomorow. And as far as I read in forums t500 boiler is to powerfull without a voltage regulator. So this is the reason I want to get this regulator. Or maybe I understanding it totaly wrong?

[Mash]

I have not got this still, but voltage Reg and a gate valve on the water seem to be regular and successful mods.

[packapoo]

Have only used mine once so far, just yesterday in fact.
Unbelievably, it seemed to do what it says on the packet

I am working on a voltage reg tho'.....

[Leatherman]

Have only used mine once so far, just yesterday in fact.
Unbelievably, it seemed to do what it says on the packet

I am working on a voltage reg tho'.....

You mean pot still or gate valve on the water (which as I understand is water flow regulator, correct me if I am wrong please)
By the way, this water flow regulator is really fascinating thing, I like to be in control

[H12rpo]

The gate valve which comes with the T500 is primarily of use when distilling with the packed column. You use it to control the flow of water through the condenser. The idea is that you use the temp guage to tell you whether to need to have a faster or slower flow of water through the condenser. The optimum temp is between 50 and 65 degrees, and you open or close the needle valve to keep the temp between those two figures.
The alembic pot head attachment uses a different condenser and the temperature guage on the lyne arm measures the temp Of the vapour at the top of the pot head.........this is supposed to tell you when to make the cuts (though as Robert and others are at pains to point out taste and smell will be invaluable tools.)

So far, I've only run the T500 using the column but I'm building a pot head so I'll look to incorporate a temp guage at the top of the lyne arm to 'assist' me in making the cuts.