StillSmart

I got the gist of keeping the cost down, but it does look a nice bit of kit...very hill billy..

Yeah I think I'll go along the route of finding a cheaper solution.

I've been experimenting with the templates for cutting the slots for the plates but I've found they don't quite stretch around my 54mm copper pipe so I decided to make a mitre jig, I've seen a few that people have made but I didn't like wooden slots for the saw so I decided to make one with metal guides, here's how I got on.




I cut two bits of 2x1 in half with 30 degree slots and fashioned some 1mm thick pieces of copper to be glued inside the 30 degree slots




After fixing the job together it looks like this, the 54mm pipe is a tight fit between the two sides




After a trial cut it looks to be doing the job :-)

I had a feeling that this was going to be a good thread,, if this post is a sample of things to come then I was not wrong.

Nice work.

Brian

Cheers YHB

I'm glad you replied cos I have a question about making a cassette style plate assembly, I cut a few inches off my 54mm tube and started to cut a section out to reduce the diameter but as soon as you cut through the pipe it springs open, did you have the same when you made your cassette?

I was supprised how the pipe springs open, one idea I had is to use my new jig to cut three sections off the tube tihen cut a side section out of each one so it springs open, I could then push them down the inside of the pipe with the slant plates trapped between them, however the more I think about it the more problems spring to mind, like things moving around etc
Might have to put them in one peice at a time, soldering as I go along, I don't want visible slots on the outside of the column if I can avoid it.

Yes every time I strip a seam it springs open, but a little persuasion and it will close up again.

Pushing the piece that you cut into the column will give you a good check for size.

You can cut a couple of narrow rings from the pipe to use as gauges, but to hold things in place, I invested in a couple of Jubilee Clips, they were worth their weight in gold. They make sure that the seam stays in place while you solder it.

Do not be in a rush to take the clips or gauges off, leave them in place while you make the rest of the cassette, if you put too much heat into it the seam will melt and everything will spring apart. Guess how I know? With the clips in place the seam will mend itself when it cools down.

I also wired the top and bottom plates into position for the same reason, it took a couple of goes but got there in the end.

Fun isn't it ?

Good luck

Brian

That vessel is a real work of art Brian. Something anyone would be proud of.

The full thread though, thanks to Anvrin, I'm finding most interesting. Unlikely to try and replicate, but well worth reading just the same.

Just got a QMAX 50mm hole cutter today and I've also had the handle removed from the lid of my boiler, I'm gonna have a go at cutting the hole out for my tower connection tonight, I'll post some pics in a bit

Ok so I just cut the hole in the lid of my boiler ready to have a 2inch tri clamp fitting welded to the top, it went easier than expected, the 50mm QMAX CUTTER is worth every penny :-)

Here's how I did it



Here you can see I've removed the handle, it was held on with 6 small spot welds that gave up when I hammered a screw driver in between the top and the handle bracket, you can also see the 50mm QMAX CUTTER in its three parts along with the tri clamp ferrel




Next I used a Christmas Tree style step drill to drill a hole and open it out to 12mm, this is the size of the bolt in the QMAX cutter




Above is the under side showing the cutting part of the cutter




Here's the top of the cutter, it takes a 10mm hex key to turn the bolt in the cutter




Job done, you can see the piece I cut out




The ferrel in place, I'm gonna take it to a place to be properly welded on




The boiler so far, I've got some silicone edging and adhesive coming from polymax to make a seal around the top, then I just need to clamp the lid down somehow :-)

Job well done..I've got a couple of Q-max cutters, they are BRILL at at they do.
I see a corni keg hidden under the worktop...

Hi Icefever

Yeah I've got a few corni kegs, this boiler is my home brew wort boiler that I'm modifying, it's a 50 litres stainless job with a 3 kW immersion heater fitted,

I have another stainless vessel I use for a HLT, it's fitted with two 2.4 kW kettle elements, has a locking lid and it seals but it's 100litre so a little too big!!!

Anavrin wrote:has a locking lid and it seals but it's 100litre so a little too big!!!

You dont need to fill it 100l is too big for running a 2" bok, but its a great size for stripping wash.

Same this end Anavrin...I've just sold a 100 litre SS pot that I used for my AG brewing. I found that I was happy doing smaller brews to fit the 6 cornies that I have...in fact I'm on the look out for a 50 litre pot...but back to this.

Great job so far...keep the pics coming...bet you can't wait for the first run with her..

Hi Icefever

There's a place just outside Derby near the A50 that sells 50litre stainless containers , they come with a removable lid that has several clamps and a seal to make it airtight, my HLT is the 100litre version, the only thing that puts people off is the sides are not vertical, it's a bit bucket shaped, I emailed the guy for a price the other week, they do several sizes but there's a gap between 20lt and 50lt :-(.

30lt would have been ideal, I think the 50lt version is £95 plus vat

The company is called mapa containers, I'll find the website and put it in another post

Here's the link

http://www.mapacontainers.co.uk/stainle ... _drums.php

Hi Everyone

I got the silicone strip and sealant today from Polymax, here's a few pics










Shame I can't try the lid yet, I dropped it off at a place to get the tri clamp ferrels welded to the lid and the other braised into the end of my column.

I'm starting to get excited now, things are starting to come together :-)