Pot head for my T500

[vino-tinto]

I'm making a pot head for my T500 boiler.
The copper pot pipe is 54mm bore x 400mm high, 90 degree bend and reducers to 15mm.
What size do I make the Liebig condenser, It will be adjustable from horizontal to 45 degrees. I had in mind 22mm over 15mm x 750mm long, does that sound about right

[Myles]

Condenser size is determined by the maximum power available for the boiler. What do you use on your T500?

I always use the default settings on the condenser calculator as a benchmark, and your proposed condenser is good for 1430 watts at a coolant flow rate of 0.6 litres / min (coolant temp change 15 to 50 degC)

Just a benchmark, as there are many variables, increased coolant flow = more thermal capacity etc.

Personally, I would not go for the sharp reduction but would try to taper it instead, or reduce in steps.

Liebig condensers are most efficient when vertical, but there is not a huge variation in their capacity. Make the riser as high as you like, so the condenser is in a user friendly position.

[vino-tinto]

OK taken on board, I will extend the riser, and after the 90 bend fit spacers between the reducers to give a longer taper, this will allow me to fit the condenser vertical.
The boiler has variable control between 1000 & 2000W

[Admiral Toad]

You will find that the actual wattage of the T500 element is 1800 watts not 2000

[vino-tinto]

You will find that the actual wattage of the T500 element is 1800 watts not 2000

When I constructed my controller I installed a volt and amp display, and when I tested it, the element draws a little over 8 amps which gave me just under 2000W.
I do have a full 240V supply, that may be why I get the full whack.
If you were to have 230V which is the norm in lots of the UK, then you would have just over 1800W

[Easydrinker]

Living out in the sticks,and at the end of an overground supply,using power-meters etc was a real experience.Even my own freezer switching on to freeze cycle would knock a hundred or two watts from the boiler that I was using.
I live with tired electricity,it comes here to die.
Robert.

[Myles]

OK taken on board, I will extend the riser, and after the 90 bend fit spacers between the reducers to give a longer taper, this will allow me to fit the condenser vertical.
The boiler has variable control between 1000 & 2000W

What is quite convenient after your tapered section is to fit a bend. Either a 45 or a 90, then a straight compression connector or union and then add a matching bend to the top of the condenser.

That way you can use the connector/union/triclamp as a rotating joint to set the condenser to any angle that is convenient.

[vino-tinto]

OK taken on board, I will extend the riser, and after the 90 bend fit spacers between the reducers to give a longer taper, this will allow me to fit the condenser vertical.
The boiler has variable control between 1000 & 2000W

What is quite convenient after your tapered section is to fit a bend. Either a 45 or a 90, then a straight compression connector or union and then add a matching bend to the top of the condenser.

That way you can use the connector/union/triclamp as a rotating joint to set the condenser to any angle that is convenient.

2 stage.jpg

That's exactly what I was going to do, after watching 10's of YouTube's I got the same idea.