Is refrigeration quality copper superior to normal copper?

[tealby]

Just been reading about refrigeration copper on a facebook group is it really superior to normal plumbing copper?

[Mash]

Superior in what way?

It does have different properties

[Easydrinker]

Pass.

Robert.

[hampk]

Chemically, Cu is Cu, so no difference.

Refer to the copper tube handbook https://www.copper.org/applications/plumbing/cth/standard-tubes/cth_1stand_type.html for details on how different types of copper tube perform in different circumstances.

Plumbing grade copper seems to be happily used by those DIY-ers among us. For those of us who just want copper in our boilers, the cheaper the better I guess!

Cheers

Hampk

[Mash]

Good link dude. I knew refrigeration grade was softer, but this would suggest just as pure.

[Maker]

So copper brake (automotive) pipe is ok to make a reflux coil from?
I wondered if automotive would be a lower grade.
Was looking to up the output on my homebrew still as I'm only getting 85% and you guys seem to get 93%, touch of ABV envy.... Figured a coil must be better than the 2 cross tubes I have currently.

[Easydrinker]

hampk said it.
Cu is cu.


Robert.

[Easydrinker]

hampk said it.
Cu is cu.


Robert.

[RumJohn]

@Maker. Without knowing what equipment you have, I will offer an idea or two. A high ABV is the result of a combination of factors all coming together at once. I doubt if the quality of the copper tubing would be a significant factor.

To achieve a high ABV that would qualify as a “neutral“, you will have collected a decent “low wine“ from your stripping runs. Around 50% ABV, give or take. Then you will need to run the low wine through a more sophisticated still than a pot still. A reflux column still would be good choice.

With a reflux still, with adequate length/height, good packing and adequate operating skill, you will attempt to arrive at a state of equilibrium in your column. This could take an hour. At that point, you will start drawing off the product at a slow enough rate so as not to disturb equilibrium in your column. All going well, you will be pulling off a fine odorless, tastless neutral up around the 95 % range.

A good neutral with a high ABV takes some work, skill and equipment. But it can be done. Develop your skill and learn you equipment by producing a product that is more forgiving. Such as a rum, which has a lot of latitude. As I said above, neutral should be just that. Odorless and tastless. Done right you do not need carbon.

[Myles]

Just 1 point. The refrigeration copper has a thinner wall and it is also imperial. There is a limited range of imperial to metric adaptors so you may have issues joining some sizes if you use both plumbing and refrigeration tube.

You can use brake tube for coils, it is easier to bend but you still have the same problem winding tight coils.

Two cross tubes? Not good, dependent on your power level you might get away with a cold finger instead of a coil.

[Easydrinker]

It is so good to see you post here again Myles.
Your experience and knowledge has always been an inspiration.

Robert.

I'll just wipe your bum fluff from my tongue, if that is OK with you

[Myles]

Thought you might like this as this was brake tube.
I got fed up with filling tube with salt before winding. Yes it works and yes it does take time to get it out again. Just connect up a hose and leave it, eventually it will spurt salty water over everything.

Anyhow this was coiled empty, it is 1/4" but easier to bend than 6 mm. You can do it but not too tight, so that means adding a cold finger in the centre. Double coil over 22 mm cold finger.







Deliberately made to be a snug fit inside 54 mm tube so it would hold itself in position.

[Mash]

Very nice.
What fitting have you used at the bottom end?

[Easydrinker]

Keep showing and teaching Myles.
You have always been a great contributor to this site.

Robert.

[Myles]

The cold finger is a 22 mm tube with a 22/15 reducer at one end and a 22 mm end cap at the other. I just drilled two holes through the sides and soldered the tube in before bending it. It did get a slight crease but nothing major. Same at the other end I just drilled two holes in a 22 mm end cap.

On other builds I have used the brass 22 mm manifolds that are intended for under floor heating. They are a brass end cap with a thick base that already has proper sockets for 2, 3 or 4 6/8/10 mm tubes. These items https://www.bes.co.uk/22-mm-x-10-mm-4-way-brass-manifold-end-feed

The brass is just on the water side because the vapour side gets coated in solder. I used these on my coiled liebig. 3 x 10 mm cores in a copper shell.